France by bike, day 3

Villedieu-les-Poêles

Well, I certainly slept the sleep of the just in Villedieu, and no ill effects from eating what I suspect was tripe for dinner.  Bread, cheese and a croissant for breakfast, and then it's back on the bike with another 60 miles or so to go.  I'm on the road by 10am, which given yesterday's performance means I am in genuine danger of missing the boat out of Caen... it depends as much as anything on the terrain, though at least today I am feeling a little more up for it.


Well, the hills continue, but seem rather more gentle, I'm mostly able to cycle up in bottom gear, my aging legs protesting all the way - followed by an exhilirating / terrifying rush downhill.  On the minus side, the rain that I've miraculously avoided thus far arrives in force, soon I am soaking wet from both the downpour and spray from the entirely non-absorbent French roads.  It doesn't seem to affect my ability too cycle much.  Passing drivers continue to sound their horns, eventually I decide they are encouraging me.  Not sure it is that helpful, though I do fell a bit guilty about the cars I gave the finger to yesterday...

Jesus it's a menhir...

Arriving in St Lo around 12.30, I pop into a bar to hide from the rain and have a warming coffee.  My request for a croque-monsieur is met with a gallic shrug though, it seems the bar is mainly a place to drink pommeau (a kind of apple sherry popular in Normandy) while betting on horses.  A bit early for lunch anyway, so I press on towards Bayeux.  The rain dies off at least, and the roads are flattening, but as I ride through miles of forest there is no sign of anywhere to eat.  It is 2.30 before I reach a roadside restaurant, where this being France, they are no longer serving food.  I'm actually thinking fondly of 24 hour little chefs, but fortunately they are able to rustle up a sandwich which turns out to be bigger than my head, phew.

Ancient burial site.

As the afternoon wears on I actually get some sunshine, and the going is easy enough, I breeze through Bayeux, and get off the main roads and into the fields, riding past a variety of roadside shrines, neolithic remains, and WW2 cemeteries.  Finally rolling into Ouistreham around 7pm, I'm a little concerned to find a series of shut bars and restaurants.  Well it is Sunday, what am I thinking?  Down by the sea however I'm able to find a brasserie for some beers, some soupe de poisson and best of all, merguez.  Even they chuck me out onto the terrasse at 9.30 mind you.  Never mind, it is time to get on the boat and head back to Portsmouth anyway.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.