South Downs Way, Part 3

Blue skies over, the white cliffs of, er, Eastbourne.

So, the last leg then.  This time, I've got the whole public transport thing sorted, and am on the 10:03 from East Croydon, changing at Lewes and then on to Berwick.  I have company too, with this trip involving slightly more sensible days of 12 miles or so, my friends Sarah and Stuart have joined me.  Will be nice to have some company up on the hills, and indeed in the pubs, of which there may be a few - without the need to force the pace we should be able to stop fairly often.  Indeed, while we manage to pass through Berwick, and then Alfriston where we rejoin the Way, a mile further on a refreshing pint at the Plough and Harrow in Litlington seems in order - well, it is a rather warm day, once again my travels over the South Downs are accompanied by blue skies.

The Beachy Head

We follow the river Cuckmere for a while, but obviously staying with it all the way to the sea would be too easy.  Rather, the Way climbs up a series of hills, dropping down nearly to sea level between each, before finally reaching the coast, where we find ourselves in the Seven Sisters country park, so named for the series of cliff tops, over which, unsurprisingly, our path leads - so much for a nice flat walk along the seaside then.  It is certainly bracing up here, and we make good time on the springy turf, passing an old lighthouse that is now a rather remote private house, and then reaching the high point of the day, Beachy Head.  Oh look, there is a pub here...

Surely, the End?

From here we only have two miles to go to Eastbourne, and with it all downhill we are there before we know it.  Something of a landmark, this is only the second of the 19 official National Trails in the UK that I've completed - must work on that.  After a pleasant stroll along the promenade we grab a pint on the Pier, find our hotel, and then an excellent Italian meal at Mo Mambo.  A good sign is that the place is full of Italians - and indeed Eastbourne seems to be a magnet for foreign tourists, we pass Italians, Germans and so forth in large numbers, and why not.  Rounding off the evening is yet more beer and some live music in the Crown and Anchor - apparently the barmaids were quite attractive here too, I of course did not notice.

Sunday morning, and no more South Downs Way to do right?  Well no, the route we took yesterday was for walkers only, there is an alternative inland path for use by cyclists and horse riders, which this very year they have extended to meet up with the cliff route on the outskirts of town.  With an earlier start this morning though, we have time to visit the pier and play the penny slots, and then paddle along the sea front.  Eastbourne has actual sand it turns out, who knew?  Before long we reach the Way again, and quickly climb up onto the Downs, heading North away from the coast.  This is a rather more like the first four days, mostly flat along the chalk ridge, I suppose that the ten miles or so yesterday was the toughest section of the Way - good thing Sarah and Stuart didn't miss it.  For lunch we drop down to Jevington and the Eight Bells, and then climb up one last time onto the ridge above the Cuckmere.

Inside the Clergy House.

Back in Alfriston we pop into the Clergy House, the very first property to be bought by the National Trust.  Now restored to medieval appearance it's an interesting detour.  We find plenty more Europeans here too - and indeed at the next pub, the George, we are served Beachy Head ale by a charming German.  Then the extended pub crawl continues for a couple more pints at the Cricketers in Berwick, before it is finally time to get the train back.  All good fun I must say, and this last section of the Way in particular I can see myself coming back to.  Eastbourne has its charms too - they have crazy golf you know.  I can't help but notice as we pass through Lewes on the way back that the Harvey's brewery is there also, hmm.  But anyway, that's enough of the South Downs for now, next week, something a bit longer...

Photos to go with this post can be found here.