El Camino de Santiago : Los Arcos to Villafranca Montes de Oca

Kilometres this section : 113

Kilometres completed : 246

Ruined Iglesia de San Pedro in Viana.

The Albergue in Los Arcos expects guests to depart by 8am, OK I can do that, today is actually a pretty long one, some 28km, so no harm getting an early start.  Of course, the walking continues to be very easy, I am 18km into the day by lunchtime, with a light pack and a well built, generally flat trail I am going pretty quickly.  Lunch is a large and tasty, if pricey, vegan empanada, which I consume in Viana, sitting in the ruins of a medieval church destroyed during the first Carlist war.  From here, a short way to a really quite substantial city, Logroño, big enough for yet another Irish pub, with beer and burger.  I seem to be the only guest at my albergue tonight, odd...

Mural by the Ermita de la Virgen de Cuevas, between Viana and Logroño.

Well, a cold night by myself in the albergue, I make an early start, barring a pause for a coffee.  Seems to be a lot of modern city on my way out of Logroño, then out into the usual easy trail through vineyards.  I am in the Rioja region, must try to drink some...  So, today the guide suggests a mere 12km, to Navarrete, I get there for 11am, obviously I am going to walk further.  Although, it's worth a stop here, the church has an incredible altarpiece, looks like a substantial proportion of Mexico's gold ended up here.  Onwards, another 17km, past the hill where allegedly the Frankish knight Roldán fought a nine foot Syrian named Ferragut - I am unconvinced.  A hotel tonight, yay, in a decent sized town, Nájera.  And, another fruitless hunt for proper food, seems like people here eat at restaurants at midday, and you only get a snack in the evening?  Ah well, yet another burger it is.  A massive one called a 'guarra doble' - do not search google for that...

Altarpiece in the Iglesia Santa Maria de la Asunción, Navarrete.

From Nájera there is an actual hill to climb, proper walking today, and what is more a few drops of rain are falling - I put on my waterproof hat, maybe at some point I'll wear my waterproof jacket on the trail, but not today.  Sure is windy though, but really I can't complain about the weather, it is March after all.  A long day today, 28km or so again in fact... I pass through Cirueña, most of which is a bizarre ghost town of fantastically ugly shuttered apartment blocks - I think they are holiday homes?  On to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, where a lady is taking her pig for a walk, as you do.  Big place this, many restaurants and albergues, but as per my guide I need to get a bit further, to Grañon, which is .. not big.  Is there even anywhere to sleep here?  As it turns out, yes, a place in the back of the church, no beds but I get a mattress.  There's an offer to prepare food, then go to mass at 7pm, then eat the food at 8...  While doing this cultural stuff sounds cool, I confess I am unable to resist beer instead, and indeed, dear god, yet another burger.  I get black pudding with this one.

And still onwards, after doing three days from my guide in just two, today there is a decent way to go, 28km in fact.  Many small towns and villages to pass through, I can see how you could turn this into a pub crawl... I do stop for a coffee in one place, the cafe has a painted over 'club' sign, and inside a chrome pole suggesting it was once a different sort of establishment.  Back to the trail, I am still climbing, and there is a stiff, cold headwind, this is actually kind of hard work.  Good thing I have a day off planned tomorrow, as I am feeling a little tired on reaching the day's end at Villafranca Montes de Oca.  First night here is in a former abbey turned hotel and albergue, it is most superior, and provides food that is not a burger!  Next day, this is really not a big place, but no huge problem with not doing much, good to rest in fact.  Only one place to eat here, back to the abbey for spaghetti, then cod and chips, can't complain.

Scenic Cirueña.