Mendip Way

On my way out from Uphill.

 Right then, an actual walk, in England even, it has been a long time.  I wasn't planning on doing such a thing given it is September, but it still seems to be plenty warm enough so why not.  The plan is to do the Mendip Way, or more accurately the West Mendip Way and then the East Mendip Way.  The Mendips being a range of limestone hills to the south of Bristol, running from the Bristol Channel to the Frome valley, so not long, in fact the route is a mere 50 miles, and its not a national trail so no acorn signs, still I have my reasons for doing it.

I start at Uphill, and manage to find the sign marking the start of the route hidden behind some bushes by the tidal gate at the entrance to Uphill marina.  The sign explains that the West Mendip Way was laid out by the local rotary club, and opened to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II's silver jubilee back in 1977.  From here I walk a way through the Somerset levels, with a nice view of Brean Down, the aforementioned marina, the river Axe, Severn estuary, and indeed Wales in the distance.  It's a nice afternoon for an easy walk, there is a brief climb up Purn Hill but it is hardly strenous, and then down again to Bleadon where as it happens my parents now live.  This is of course the main reason for choosing this route, this first night I get to have home-cooked food and sleep in a bed.  And, I have walked three whole miles!

Trig point!  With Cheddar Reservoir in the background.

Day two, it is cloudy but dry, fine weather for walking in fact.  Off I walk over hills, there are more views, Brent Knoll is not far away at all, and Glastonbury Tor is visible to the south.  Lots of woods today, they are a bit damp but not cold, it sure is nice to be doing this in England again.  It is not long to Cheddar, tonight's stop, just 8 miles by road in fact, but the trail takes a much longer route, partly to pack in many hills of course, but also so that it can approach the town along one edge of the famous gorge, it is most scenic.  I check into an English campsite - haven't done that for a while - good to see it is still open in mid-September.  For dinner I cook up a couple of burgers in the tent, and why not.

Bishop's residence at Wells.

It's raining when I wake up, this is also nostalgic, but it's not a lot fun to pack up the wet tent.  In the event it rains for most of the day, a shame as this is a good route, there are hills of course, without much of a view in this weather, and plenty of nice footpaths through forest.  I descend through another gorge, Ebbor, not as dramatic as Cheddar but pleasantly wooded, from here the route passes through Wookey Hole, I never realised it was a village as well as just a tourist attraction.  Just one more hill, then down on a footpath turned into a rushing stream by the rain, and I'm in Wells, a lovely little place I must say.  England's smallest city I gather, it of course has a cathedral, but also an impressive castle complete with moat, apparently this was the bishop's residence for many centuries.  I did plan to keep going a little further on the way and trying to find a random spot to camp in the woods, but honestly with the rain I am not fancying it, I haven't seen much in the way of suitable camp spots anyway.  A quick search locates a compact and bijou campsite a little south of the 'city' - the castle is bordered directly by fields.  A whole nine pounds gets me a pitch, and it even stops raining so I can walk back to Wells and a pub...

My tent lives!

Last day, and a beautiful sunny morning, although I don't have time to wait for the tent to dry.  Twenty miles today to the endpoint at Frome, this will be the East Mendip Way, a later addition to the trail, and perhaps without as many notable features, nonetheless I of course start by climbing a hill.  Pleasant grassy walking at the top, although many of the fields have cows and I need to be careful where I'm putting my feet - I fear I am not always careful enough.  The weather holds up, I climb down to Shepton Mallet and its impressive viaduct, then up onto more hills, sometimes more grassy fields, sometimes fine walking through woods.  Seems like a lot of these paths are well trodden, but maybe not the route as a whole - a few times I have to struggle through a section overgrown with weeds.  It gets a bit muddy at times too, unsurprising after the downpour yesterday - at one point I slip over, I can cope though, although I am starting to see why growing up in this country I thought proper boots were needed for walking.  Well, my walking shoes keep going, a pleasant last few miles along a woodland stream and I'm into Frome.  Time to take a train to Bristol and a proper bed!

A close as I could find to something marking the end of the route.

Thai cycling - Nakhon Sawan back to Sikhio.

At the resort in Takhli.

I ride south from Nakhon Sawan, through pretty mountainous country, but the route I've planned manages to be flat enough.  I do pick up a puncture, it is only a slow though so I opt for pumping up the tire whenever I stop to take on water, which is often of course.  Not a terribly long day, only 70km or so, I reach my destination, Takhli, early enough.  Time to fix that puncture, and a good thing it was only a slow as I struggle to remove the wheel, it is a quick release of course but I can't budge the lever, looking around the (charming) resort I find a piece of metal rebar which lets me apply some extra leverage, sorted.  More difficulties though, riding off to a bar I arrive to find it shut, and then rain starts to pour down, no choice but to wait around for half an hour.  Then the second bar I try is shut too, these are all several km apart on a busy road, good thing I am on the bike.  Well, the third bar is thankfully open, it also provides me with a fantastic fish curry.

Day six of the trip, another 70km or so, today I follow a railway line for a while, then a nice road along a substantial canal, built for irrigation purposes I guess.  Only problem is that as this isn't a natural watercourse, it doesn't really pass through any towns making it hard to find water, in the end I have to detour away.  I enter yet another province, Lopburi, and follow the canal to my destination, the provincial capital which is of course also named Lopburi.  Again it is a bit hard to find a bar, the route google suggests I take to one involves a road that doesn't exist in reality, so I have to backtrack along a road with many barking dogs.  Then it turns out the bar doesn't exist either, a victim of Covid I imagine, well, I eventually find a place where I am, of course, the only customer.

Pasak Chonlasit reservoir.

A long day from Lopburi, I am now heading east back towards home, but at least for most of the morning I'm going downhill and make good time, the low point being the impressive Pasak Chonlasit reservoir.  I did plan to ride along the dam, but the road is closed, well the minor road below the dam is very pleasant.  From here, the cycling remains flat for a while, then mid afternoon I am a bit disconcerted to see a sign saying it is still 69km to my destination, Pak Chong.  Fortunately it seems that was for a route staying on major roads, well, the route I've planned is only 25km and actually the roads are fine, if rather hilly now, I do have to push the bike a bit.  Seems this is popular cycling country, I see a few others about on my way into town.  Pak Chong is a very popular tourist destination, close to Khao Yai national park, so no problem finding a familiar bar with a proper band playing.

Lovely mountain scenery in Khao Yai.

Last day, good thing too, I feel a bit broken.  Not sure about the handlebar grip design on this bike, both of my hands have gone kind of numb, also I have a few patches of sunburn, well it will heal.  The day is a hard one of course, 90km or so and I am going through that national park - the only alternative being to ride on what is essentially a motorway back to Sikhio.  Well, it certainly makes for very pretty riding, and in fact for much of the morning I am going downhill, southeast rather than directly east towards home.  I can however see a line of steep hills to my left, at some point my route will turn and cross them, well, hopefully there really is a road there.  In the event, yes, there is a very, very steep road - at times I can barely push the bike uphill, let alone pedal.  There is at least a nice view on the way up, and when I finally reach the top, some fun freewheeling down the other side.  Not too far now, more pleasant countryside, including another reservoir, Sap Bradu, on my way back to Sikhio.  And that is that, well, all good fun of course, and I am sure feeling will return to my little fingers at some point.  I shall have to see about a route to the south or east of here at some point.

Thai Cycling - Sikhio to Nakhon Sawan

My new bicycle.

Another small adventure!  I am no longer working but still in Thailand, so free to do a bit of travelling, it is pretty hot at this time of year but nonetheless I should be able to do a little cycle tour, an eight day circle starting from my current home in Sikhio, Nakhon Ratchasima province.  I begin with a short ride north, just 40km or so to Dankhuntot, a nice little place with a very substantial lake - arriving there mid afternoon, I have time to walk around it.  What do do in the evening here - well, unsurprisingly a find a bar - not the first time I've been to one here, it is only a short drive from home after all.

Day two, still heading north, but a substantially longer route, some 90km to another little town, Nongbuarawe.  This makes for hard work, I fear I am out of condition, still the exercise will do me good I am sure.  I pass many lakes, one of them has an impressive temple complex with a truly huge elephant statue next to it.  I'm into my second province of the trip, Chaiyaphum - I have probably driven through it but this is my first time here as a tourist, it is pretty - less flat than much of Thailand.  Arriving, I check into a resort - basically a motel - and as will be the plan every day, wash my cycling clothes before heading to another bar - this time there is live music.

Temple with very large elephant.

An even longer day - 110km, and what is more there are mountains to ride through.  I am heading west, today I will cross the border between Chaiyaphum and Petchabun provinces, as is often the way the border follows a line of hills.  Well, it makes for scenic riding, there is even wildlife - monkeys of course.  Very hot work though, I consume massive amounts of water over the course of the day.  I manage to reach my destination, another small place called Bueng Sampan, the resort I have booked here is rather nice, even has a pool although I am to tired to think about swimming, or indeed moving much.  Fortunately the place is able to supply beer and food, although I do kind of wish the Belgian owner would put a shirt on.

A view over Chaiyaphum province.

Onwards, the days are just getting longer, this one is over 120km, somewhat flatter but still a long way, I don't have much time to pause, even to take photos - mostly when I stop I just guzzle water.  Yet another province today, Nakhon Sawan, and this time I am actually going to the provincial capital.  This of course is a place I have cycled to before, on my way from Kanchanaburi to Chiang Mai in fact, I guess I have ridden around a fair bit of Thailand by now.  Nice to see the place again, and in fact I've booked into the same hotel as last time I was here.  Half way through this little trip now!

El Camino de Santiago : Portomarin to Santiago

Kilometres this section : 94

Kilometres completed : 786

The rather impressive hill fort remains.

Can't say I love the usual before 8am departure from the albergue in Portomarin.  The sun hasn't risen yet, it is chilly, and there's nowhere to get a coffee - though I pass plenty of hotels with guests enjoying breakfast, I guess if you are only doing 100km all told, a nice hotel when you can isn't expensive.  Well, I walk out of town into a foggy morning, climbing gradually, and I do find a coffee after a couple of hours.  In fact there's a cafe every few miles now, clearly if you are in no hurry and have money to spend, you can keep stopping for breaks throughout the day.  Well, I get that coffee, then a beer and a bocadillo for lunch at least.  On the way, the high point of the day, literally and figuratively, is an iron age hill fort, where archaeological excavations have revealed substantial remains of the many stone buildings within the fort's perimeter, very cool.  Kind of sad to see the many, many other pilgrims walk past without taking a look though.  There's a large party of schoolchildren keeping pace with me now - maybe their teachers got them to visit the fort?  Well, downhill now, and the sun comes out, a lovely walk to Palas de Rei, and yet another hotel, such decadence.  Like Portomarin, this is a decent sized place, so for the second night in a row I get pizza - I am getting so fat on this trip.

One of many photos I took of hórreos.

A nice morning walking out of Portomarin, 29km today, the last long day of the trip.  So many people on the trail now, some even faster than me, though not the school kids.  Fields and forests today, a fair bit of green tunnel, and many small villages.  I am fascinated by the buildings, the older houses often have tiny windows on the ground floor - I think the space was used as a place to put your livestock in the winter.  In particular though, I notice that every farm and many houses have odd structures in their vicinity - something like three meters by half a meter, and the height of a two storey building, but usually the upper half is a brick or wooden enclosure, and just stone supports below. What could they be?  I suspect food stores... and indeed, some research indicates that they are 'Hórreos', granaries that have become emblematic of the region.  Anyway, I walk past many of these things, stop for lunch at Milede, then more easy walking to Arzúa, and a nice albergue.  Much pasta for dinner, ravioli and then lasagna, it is past 8pm as I eat, but there are still pilgrims walking into town - I consider lecturing them about how very late it is.

One last, excellent, pilgrim menu.

Last day but one, and only 20km to do - it's the same distance tomorrow, I considered doing the whole 40km in one day, but apparently arriving at Santiago before midday so you can attend mass is a thing, I will try to do that.  So, very easy indeed today, surrounded by a veritable horde of pilgrims I walk through gently sloping fields and forests, regularly stopping for a coffee, then lunch with most of the distance done.  With so many pilgrims on the trail now, it's not surprising that there are plenty of people who have set up little stalls, selling various things, offering to paint a personalised shell, and so on.  I guess this really is the spirit of the Camino, and has been for a thousand years.  Well, I save my money for one last albergue, very superior it is too.  Oh and beer of course, not to mention one last pilgrim menu, probably the best of the trip, the main course being a delicious parillada de pescado.

I got to the end!

So, the last day!  I start walking before dawn, only 20km, more woods and rolling hills, and even though I stop for coffee a couple of times, it doesn't take long.  I'm in Santiago before midday, time to present my credencial, and receive two impressive certificates, with my name in Latin even.  One is free and confirms that I got here, the other costs three Euros and includes the distance from Saint Jean.  It doesn't take long, I am only a minute or two late for midday mass at the huge cathedral... I am surprised it's in Spanish rather than Latin, still the singing nuns are most cool.  This is clearly another city in which I could spend all day sightseeing, well, I wander around the charming prazas, and a beautiful park, look inside a few churches, but time is limited - I have souvenirs to buy, too!  Also beer, of course, and not for the first time, the bar supplies so many 'pinxos' - snacks of various kinds - that I don't think about ordering proper food.  Well, that was all good fun, I will write a retrospective at some point.  For now, back to the UK - why yes, I do walk to Santiago airport.

El Camino de Santiago : Ponferrada to Portomarin

Kilometres this section : 119

Kilometres completed : 692

Walking through the snow.

I head out of Ponferrada, past the large and impressive Castillo de los Templarios, it was also shut yesterday, and I really don't have time to wait until 10am for it to open today.  Some other time... Ponferrada is big, takes me a while to walk out, and then more easy, flat walking, mostly on road, though the hills are getting nearer.  I am now getting into Galicia, seems to have a different character to Castilla y León, houses have slate roofs, wooden balconies, and often place names seem more like Portuguese than Spanish.  There are also places offering the local delicacy, 'botillo', this being a kind of sausage made with, among other things, the tongue, jaw, and tail of a pig - think I will pass.  I am back in wine country too, and clearly spring has arrived here, the vines have leaves on them, as do the trees. Makes for delightful walking when I finally get away from the road, yes there is a bit of climbing now, but it is hardly strenuous.  Tonight my stop is Villafranca del Bierzo, another lovely place - I get the feeling that from now on, it would be easy enough to alternate one day of walking, then one of sightseeing.  No time for that, I need to do my daily clothes wash, then beer and once again, spaghetti then cod.

From Villafranca del Bierzo the Camino follows the river Carce upstream, it's mainly road walking and again easy.  But, for a surprise it's actually raining, not heavy but a persistent drizzle, I wear my raincoat on the trail for the first time.  It feels cold too, honestly I am happy with this, after the heat of the last few weeks it makes a nice change.  The river dwindles to little more than a stream, and then the trail leaves the road, and wow, actual climbing, the trail is somewhat steep.  Up to around 1,300 meters, to a mountain pass, and the end of the day, O Cebreiro.  Not sure why this place is here, right at the high point of the pass, it is odd too - circular, stone buildings with thatched roofs, and I think it's a bit of a tourist trap?  Gift shops, restaurants, and not much else, but there is a municipal albergue, only my second.  Wow, it is cold up here, I am glad to find one restaurant has the heating on, and I could order the usual menu but hey, pizza, works for me.

Cloister at the Mosteiro de San Xulián e San Xulián e Santa Basilisa.

I emerge from the albergue in O Cebreiro, and wow it has snowed overnight, well we are up a mountain I guess.  From here I have to climb, a little, it really is snowing, well, nice that carrying my cold weather gear all this way wasn't a waste of time.  I keep my hat and gloves on most of the day, before long the trail leads downhill, along another river, but it's still cold.  As I descend, the snow of course turns to rain, and not much to see as clouds hug the hills, well I can cope with this.  After lunch at Tricastela, there are two routes, obviously I have planned to take the longer of the two, which after 10km takes me to Samos, where there is a very large monastery.  There are of course also bars, and I find a menu with different things!  Very greasy things as it turns out - croquettes and calamari.

Mural inside the monastery.

I am due for one last zero day, well, there's not much to Samos but it will do, in fact I have booked a pensión for two nights, such luxury.  Good to have a rest, and wash all the clothes I am not wearing, and indeed not walk on a cold, wet morning.  In the afternoon the sun comes out, and I take a guided tour of the monastery - an actual Benedictine monk shows us around, there are two cloisters, and interesting murals and statues. Other than that I don't do much, barring the usual consumption of giant bocadillo, spaghetti, and so on.

Out of Samos, more easy walking along a river, at intervals you can see where a dam and mill race were constructed, flour mills I imagine.  Obviously the buildings are now ruins.  So, I need to pay for the rest with a long day, some 37km, no time for sightseeing at my lunch stop, Sarria.  This is just over 100km from Santiago, which is the minimum distance to walk in order to get a certificate at the end.  This means lots of new walkers, not all of whom are prepared - I see a group waiting for a taxi, and others walking in their 'evening shoes'.  I remember doing that on the Pennine Way, over 20 years ago now.  Well, nice walking country anyway, rolling hills, there are dry stone walls, sheep and cows - it could be the UK.  I eventually reach the day's end at Portomarin, it is past 6pm but no matter.  Nice place, and again looks kind of British - not least it is on the bank of what seems to be a loch.

Portomarin, seen from across what is actually Río Miño.

El Camino de Santiago : León to Ponferrada

Kilometres this section : 105

Kilometres completed : 573

With the Pilgrim Monument in Villar de Mazarife.

A small dilemma before leaving León... I had planned to buy a pair of walking shoes in Bristol just before leaving for France, unfortunately though Bristol's Decathlon turned out to be half an aisle in a large Asda, the stock limited to things involved in, I think, weight lifting.  So, I was stuck with Asda's own offerings.  Well, they've got me over 400km, and in fact are largely OK, but for the somewhat collapsed heels, and the degree of wear on the soles - too soft a material there.  So I could walk to León's Decathlon and buy a new pair...  But I decide against it, there is another Decathlon at Ponferrada in a few days...  Anyway, walking, a short day, good as I get a late start.  The route according to my GPS looks dull, more Leon suburbs, then many kilometres alongside a main road.  I'm pleased then to see that the guide I've downloaded suggests a different route, which on the ground is signposted as an alternative.  This takes me away from the traffic and into beautiful countryside, much more like it.  Glorious walking leads to my destination for the day, Villar de Mazarife, and I am quite struck by the charming albergue across from the church.  Sadly it turns out to be a bit disappointing - can't really blame them for my inability to eat fatty meat, but the bar service is terrible, and then they stop serving at 8:30 - obviously it is the only bar in town as well.  Ah, whatever, will do me good to not drink much I am sure.

Walls of Astorga with Gaudi's Palacio Episcopal rising above them.

Out of Mazarife, and after many days of more or less flat walking, some actual up and down.  Hills today, and I can see mountains ahead - well, it isn't hard, my pack is tiny after all.  Lovely up here in the high country, there are evergreens, birds variously flit around or glide above me, all is good.  Well, a small problem when I hit a decent sized town, Hospital de Órbigo, I had hoped to get a cheap lunch from a supermarket here, as it can be surprisingly expensive at cafes.  But of course, the shops are shut because it's good Friday, what am I thinking.  It is no problem as it turns out, a little later there's a village with a bar that provides me with a beer and an inexpensive, and very tasty, sandwich.  More hilly country, a long day today, good to do a proper day's walking.  I am tired on reaching Astorga however, I happily check into the first albergue I see, and it is fine, good home cooked food.  I make it far enough into the city for a beer or two after dinner, but proper sightseeing can wait until tomorrow, as it is time for another day off.

Roman remains in Astorga.

In fact I walk a fair bit, day off or no.  There's a lot to see, this is another city dating back to Roman times, more impressive walls, and even a substantial mosaic floor still in its original location.  Many other historic buildings too, I have one of those maps with a numbered list of sights, I have time to visit and indeed photograph all of them.  For ease of later identification of said photos, I go to each place in order... which involves much walking.  Rather than a sensible route, it often seems the numbers have been chosen so that I have to visit one site, then walk to the other side of the city, then back again, multiple times even.  Well, good exercise, and I need to get to my hotel for my second night here, of course it's a mile out of town.  Then back for more sightseeing - substantial Roman remains, and murals - and another evening in Astorga.  I must say, this is the most alive place I've seen on this trip, there are actual young people having fun here, I can almost believe Spain won't be an uninhabited wasteland in fifty year's time.  This is a big enough place that I can get a burger, and a big beer too - although, oddly, the afternoon duty barmaid at the bar I go to both nights insists that no big beers are available, odd,, given that after the shift change, big beer is back.

Highest point of the trail!

Time to walk some more then, out of Astorga, the terrain rises ahead and clearly I am going to climb, but honestly most of the time the grade is so gentle I barely notice.  Nice to be in high country though, there is heather, gorse, stone buildings - I could be in Britain.  There seem to be a lot more people on the trail today, come the morning I am one of a long line of pilgrims, all making our way west.  Well, it is April now, getting into high season, and I think a fair number of people started from Astorga.  Lunchtime finds me in El Ganso, not a big place but there are several bars - but of course, it's Sunday so they're all shut.  Fortunately one little albergue is open, I get an empanada de carne from their shop, most tasty though best not to investigate the meat too closely.  Then more climbing, and fewer people as it's now the afternoon.  I'm approaching the highest point of the trail, and I think tonight's stop, Foncebadón, is probably the highest town.  A tiny place, it seems to consist entirely of albergues.

So, just a few kilometres out of Foncebadón and I'm at that highest point, there's a pole here surmounted by an iron cross, the pole emerging from a massive cairn, formed from stones brought here by pilgrims over the years.  I add a small pebble of my own, and then walk a lovely high altitude trail - well, some 1500 meters above sea level anyway.  It is very flat, but after as while I start to descend, in fact there is a thousand meters of descent to come, it's even kind of steep at times.  Ponferrada is visible below, can't help but notice more hills the other side of town, well, that is for tomorrow.  Still, for the Camino this is a long day, nearly 4pm when I get to Decathlon, yeah I need those new shoes now.  Then to my albergue - I have reserved one, worried about the number of people I'm seeing now.  And, a bit of a struggle to find food, this is a big place, but most restaurants are closed - Monday after holy week I guess.  Well, I find a bar, and the usual thing of free food with every beer means lots of fried potatoes.  I am too full to eat a plate of proper food when their kitchen opens, a bocadillo works though.

The very splendid Castillo de los Templarios at Ponferrada.

El Camino de Santiago : Carrión de los Condes to León

Kilometres this section : 96

Kilometres completed : 468

The trail continues to be flat and unimpeded.

Another good thing about staying in a hotel, no need to leave at the crack of dawn - now the clocks have gone back, sunrise isn't until 8am or so, being thrown out of an albergue that early inevitably means walking in the cold for a while.  Whereas today I roll out of town at around 10, under a lovely blue sky, it is going to be a warm day.  To the north I can see a range of mountains, plenty of snow up there, but to he trail isn't going that way, indeed it is completely flat, heading more or less straight west towards Santiago.  More fields, more small towns, each one has places to stay, you really could do 10km or less most days if you wanted.  One such town is my endpoint today, Terradillos de los Templarios, wow this is not a big place.  I wander a bit, what little there are in the way of buildings seem deserted, or indeed uninhabited, but there is an exception, the albergue, there's only one and it is busy.  Seems to be a younger, louder crowd of pilgrims tonight, compared to the usual quiet, elderly types, well why not.  Dinner tonight features pumpkin soup...

Decaying mud brick buildings in Bercianos del Real Camino.

Another early start, more blue skies and flat, easy trail.  I think I am about half way through the trip, no reason for there to be any sort of sign though.  In fact, Saint Jean Pied de Port is just one of the more popular places to start, there are quite a few different routes and of course you can start from your house, wherever it is.  This doesn't stop the next town I pass through, Sahagún, having a big 'halfway point of the Camino' sign.. pretty sure I am rather more than halfway though.  Interesting place anyway, much of it the massive ruins of yet another monastery.  A little further, to today's finish, Bercianos del Real Camino, not much of a place and once again, kind of deserted and decaying.  Here, rather than stone, the delapidated buildings are made of actual mud brick.  Well, there's a large, modern albergue that supplies all my needs, think they even give me free beer, can't complain.

Holy Week parade in Mansilla de las Mulas.

An early start from Bercianos - though not as early as my three roommates from the albergue, who were up at 6am, two hours before dawn!  The sun's up when I leave, but there's frost on the ground, it stays cold until midday or so.  Not a very exciting walk today, the trail running alongside a road all day.  There are mountains ahead now, as well as to the north, I expect I'll have to climb at some point, but I doubt it will be too bad.  An interesting destination today though, a well preserved walled town, Mansilla de las Mulas.  There are of course many historic buildings, after checking into an albergue I spend some time sightseeing, but then struggle to find a restaurant - there are bars, but they only have tapas, well it is good, various tasty things, one with each of my beers.  Then a commotion outside, it is holy week so we have a procession, wow, very interesting.  Near the front, a statue of the virgin Mary, usually behind the altar at one of the churches I guess.  At the back is a priest, but surrounding all this are a band and more people marching, and all of them wearing robes and a high, pointed, face obscuring hood.  A thing to see for sure.  I then get my bill, seems the tapas was free as long as I kept drinking.  Why have I been paying for food exactly?

León Cathedral.

Another day, more easy walking, and again a little dull, along a major road towards León, this is a big city of course, so much of the morning involves commercial zones and suburbs.  And by midday I am in the city, totally worth spending an afternoon sightseeing, this place has been here a while - the largely intact medieval walls following the plan of the original Roman 'playing card' fort built over two thousand years ago, and of course there is a cathedral, and various other historic sites to visit.  Santa Semana is clearly a big thing here, I see various floats ready to be pushed around, and some of the participants already wearing their robes, no hoods yet though.  Again I struggle to find proper food,  well, a few beers and various tapas will do.  Although, asking the barman to recommend something was a bad idea, I am happy to immerse myself in the culture, but I still don't want to eat tripe.

¡Ay, un león!

El Camino de Santiago : Villafranca Montes de Oca to Carrión de los Condes

Kilometres this section : 126

Kilometres completed : 372

Villafranca Montes de Oca - the large yellow building is the albergue.

I seem to have been in Villafranca a while, it is good to get moving again.  And, a nice day to be walking, blue sky and the wind has dropped which is good.  A lovely route today too, climbing through forest, I'm over a thousand metres of altitude now, not that getting up here involved anything steep.  After a bocadillo for lunch, I detour to check out an archaeological park, but sadly it is shut, like many businesses here, victims of the covid madness I guess.  Today's destination is Cardeñuela Riopico, not much of a place, but there is a pleasant albergue where I get interesting food - Castilian soup, which seems to involve vegetables, bread, and eggs.  To follow, fish meatballs - the lady in charge is surprised I've never had them before.

Burgos cathedral.

Out of Cardeñuela, the way is very flat, gravel tracks and a delightful trail along a river.  This turns into a park, as I am walking into a substantial city, Burgos - I recall riding through this place seven years ago on my way to Rio.  A slightly slower pace this time, I visit the cathedral and take a few photos at least.  Then out of town, through the university district, I remember riding this way.  Not too far to the end of the day at Tardajos, another small place with an albergue, tonight the menu has red beans, more cod, and carrot cake - can't complain.

Time to leave Tardajos, I think I am still on my cycle route from 2016, it sure looks familiar.  I recall passing a lot of pilgrims, well, I was here in the high season, whereas March is supposed to be too early... in fact I am watching Spanish TV, they say, 'summer temperatures... in March'.  Well this may be bad for the planet but I am not complaining.  Another lovely walk today, spring is here, blossoming trees, butterflies flit around as I walk.  A whole 30km today?  Still very easy, I I reach Castrojeriz for half past three, time for a lie down, then sightseeing - above the village there is a very impressive castle, most of it around 1,000 years old, but built on an older roman structure.  Back to my hotel, beer and, for a change, pizza - Spain isn't very good at pizza, no matter, it is food, and honestly I'm not hungry - lunch today involved a truly enormous bacon and cheese bocadillo.

Pilgrim monument in Villalcázar de Sirga.

Another day, I walk out through Castrojeriz, and not for the first time I am struck by the amount of decay evident in this part of Spain.  For sale signs are everywhere, sometimes recently vacated businesses and homes, but often a shell of a building, just the exterior walls with no roof or rooms.  I get the feeling the population is in steep decline here, I see few people, and notably no schools.  Ah well, out into the country, cold today but still good walking.  I seem to have left the vineyards behind, they are growing actual food here.  After lunch I join the Castilla Canal for a few kilometres, again this is familiar from the cycle back in 2016, wow, seven years ago.  I leave the canal at Frómista, a decent sized place with many restaurants, all shut for some reason.  Well, one bar is open, I get a bocadillo, some tortilla and a few beers, it will do.

Quail!

An easy day from Frómista, only 19km, so lazy.  Well, I manage to make some more work for myself by forgetting my watch, I have to walk back to the albergue to get it.  Cold today, but a pleasant riverside trail to Carrión de los Condes, a sizable place with much to see, time for a day off then.  I've settled into a regime with zero days, one night in an albergue, then a hotel for a bit of peace.  So, a lazy afternoon, I visit numerous churches and monasteries, stroll along the river Carrión for which the town is named, then back to a proper menu for dinner - this time there's quail!  More sightseeing on my day off, including actually getting into one of the monasteries - there is of course a cloister, and also 1,000 year old wall hangings in the style of the Sassanid empire, very cool.  Dinner tonight features fried eggs and black pudding, I could be back in England.

Cloister in El Monasterio de San Zoilo.

El Camino de Santiago : Los Arcos to Villafranca Montes de Oca

Kilometres this section : 113

Kilometres completed : 246

Ruined Iglesia de San Pedro in Viana.

The Albergue in Los Arcos expects guests to depart by 8am, OK I can do that, today is actually a pretty long one, some 28km, so no harm getting an early start.  Of course, the walking continues to be very easy, I am 18km into the day by lunchtime, with a light pack and a well built, generally flat trail I am going pretty quickly.  Lunch is a large and tasty, if pricey, vegan empanada, which I consume in Viana, sitting in the ruins of a medieval church destroyed during the first Carlist war.  From here, a short way to a really quite substantial city, Logroño, big enough for yet another Irish pub, with beer and burger.  I seem to be the only guest at my albergue tonight, odd...

Mural by the Ermita de la Virgen de Cuevas, between Viana and Logroño.

Well, a cold night by myself in the albergue, I make an early start, barring a pause for a coffee.  Seems to be a lot of modern city on my way out of Logroño, then out into the usual easy trail through vineyards.  I am in the Rioja region, must try to drink some...  So, today the guide suggests a mere 12km, to Navarrete, I get there for 11am, obviously I am going to walk further.  Although, it's worth a stop here, the church has an incredible altarpiece, looks like a substantial proportion of Mexico's gold ended up here.  Onwards, another 17km, past the hill where allegedly the Frankish knight Roldán fought a nine foot Syrian named Ferragut - I am unconvinced.  A hotel tonight, yay, in a decent sized town, Nájera.  And, another fruitless hunt for proper food, seems like people here eat at restaurants at midday, and you only get a snack in the evening?  Ah well, yet another burger it is.  A massive one called a 'guarra doble' - do not search google for that...

Altarpiece in the Iglesia Santa Maria de la Asunción, Navarrete.

From Nájera there is an actual hill to climb, proper walking today, and what is more a few drops of rain are falling - I put on my waterproof hat, maybe at some point I'll wear my waterproof jacket on the trail, but not today.  Sure is windy though, but really I can't complain about the weather, it is March after all.  A long day today, 28km or so again in fact... I pass through Cirueña, most of which is a bizarre ghost town of fantastically ugly shuttered apartment blocks - I think they are holiday homes?  On to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, where a lady is taking her pig for a walk, as you do.  Big place this, many restaurants and albergues, but as per my guide I need to get a bit further, to Grañon, which is .. not big.  Is there even anywhere to sleep here?  As it turns out, yes, a place in the back of the church, no beds but I get a mattress.  There's an offer to prepare food, then go to mass at 7pm, then eat the food at 8...  While doing this cultural stuff sounds cool, I confess I am unable to resist beer instead, and indeed, dear god, yet another burger.  I get black pudding with this one.

And still onwards, after doing three days from my guide in just two, today there is a decent way to go, 28km in fact.  Many small towns and villages to pass through, I can see how you could turn this into a pub crawl... I do stop for a coffee in one place, the cafe has a painted over 'club' sign, and inside a chrome pole suggesting it was once a different sort of establishment.  Back to the trail, I am still climbing, and there is a stiff, cold headwind, this is actually kind of hard work.  Good thing I have a day off planned tomorrow, as I am feeling a little tired on reaching the day's end at Villafranca Montes de Oca.  First night here is in a former abbey turned hotel and albergue, it is most superior, and provides food that is not a burger!  Next day, this is really not a big place, but no huge problem with not doing much, good to rest in fact.  Only one place to eat here, back to the abbey for spaghetti, then cod and chips, can't complain.

Scenic Cirueña.

El Camino de Santiago : Pamplona to Los Arcos

Kilometres this section : 68
Kilometres completed : 133

Pilgrim monument at the Alto de Perdón.

Day four, I walk out of Pamplona, it's another beautiful day, and lovely surroundings again.  There are many little towns, houses with white walls and red roofs, each with a very defensible church or abbey at the centre - I am of course reminded of the walk to Carcassonne I did a few years ago.  Well, different country but not too far away, and it is all the Basque region of course.  Signs here are often in Spanish and Basque, and wow, the latter bears no relation to any language I know.  Maybe a Greek influence?

Anyway, more easy walking, barring one short downhill section over loose stones.  Today the distance is a whole 22km, well it isn't nothing, and I manage to add another 2km by taking a detour to see a 12th century romanesque church.  Possibly built by the Knights Templar even.  I still reach Puente la Reina, today's finish, by 5pm, this really is not very challenging.  Well, it works out, tonight the Albergue insists on me not staying out later than 9:30, straight to a bar then - it actually rains on the way there.  Spaghetti then fried cod tonight, not sure I will lose much weight on this trip.

Iglesia de Santa María de Eunate.

After an early night, I should not be surprised when my fellow pilgrims start getting up before 7am, OK, I can also do this.  Not entirely sure why, there is only 22km to walk today, we hardly have to hurry.  Not to mention, this early in the day it is kind of cold.  Never mind, it warms up over the course of the morning, great walking through vineyards and olive groves.  Over too soon really, I reach today's destination, Estella, shortly after 1pm.  Hmm, I think I should have planned this a bit more carefully, seems like I could have reduced the number of days to do the thing quite a bit.  Just didn't have time...

Well, Estella is lovely anyway, and tonight I have a superior, private albergue, in a historic tannery even.  There are glass panels in the floor, through which the carved stone sinks used during the leather production can be seen.  The town is also big enough to have an Irish pub, where I enjoy a burger plus beer.  And, no hurry to leave, I've booked a hotel room here too, while I don't need a rest it will make a change to sightsee for a day.  Sure is a lot to see here, many buildings are hundreds of years old, churches of course, fortifications, and yes I ascend a couple of large hills on the outskirts of town.  Lots of history here clearly...  First I'd heard of it, but it seems that just as in Britain, where parliament's decision to choose the King they wanted led to the Jacobite rebellion, something similar happened here.  There were a few claimants to the throne over the decades, all named Carlos, so we are talking about the Carlist wars - and it seems Estella was for a time the Carlist capital.  I pass buildings with bullet holes from 150 years ago...

La Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro in Estella.

Second night in Estella, the Irish pub is shut so I find a typical Spanish bar, there's beer but food is limited to sandwiches, I get a little drunk, good thing I have a hotel room rather than annoying my fellow pilgrims.  Back to walking next day, it is still easy, and lovely surroundings, spring is arriving here, I walk beneath trees in blossom.  And, you have to love Spain, not long into the day there is a drinking fountain that dispenses not water, but wine!  I fill a small bottle, it goes well with my lunch (bread and chorizo), then not too far until the end of the day, another medieval town, Los Arcos.  Another bar and sandwiches for dinner, I am sure proper food will be back at some point...

Getting my fill of wine at the Fuente de Irache.

El Camino de Santiago : Roncesvalles to Pamplona

Kilometres this section : 49

Kilometres completed : 65

Back at the trail junction I was at around 5pm the day before.

Day two of the Camino, and I am walking in the wrong direction, back towards France, well, no help for it, obviously I don't want to miss a section of walking.  Sadly I didn't make a note of where exactly the fat officer stopped me, but he said I was only two kilometres from Valcarlos, I will walk back down the road and see if I recognise anything.  And in fact, I am still three kilometres from Valcarlos when I see the turn-off to the riverside trail...  OK, I walk the trail again, it is still nice, and around 2km in length, so, when I return to the road I am now 5km from Valcarlos, and this is the nearest to it I could possibly have been last night.  Not 2km then.  The crazy man also said we were fifteen kilometres from Roncesvalles, whereas in reality?  Seven or eight km.  I guess he was just making up numbers to justify his desire to boss somebody about.  Sadly this is a thing of the police all over the world, you give some guys a uniform and they think they are el Generalisimo.

A taste of the trail to come - flat and well made.

Well, another half hour back up the road, then another trail, only 5km back to Roncesvalles, steeply uphill though, it takes me over an hour, so nearly 1pm before I can make some actual progress.  Fortunately, like many of the suggested days on the Camino, this is a short one, only 22km.  And, what can I say... readers of this blog will be familiar with me walking through bog, mud, snow, water, up mountains, through deserts, hacking through jungles etc.  This is... not like that.  The trail is a very well built gravel track, or sometimes actual flagstones, usually with a gentle downhill grade.  It is very easy, all the better to enjoy the alpine scenery.  Even the weather is good, blue skies, and while the leafless trees suggest spring has not yet come, it's warm enough.  Lovely walking then, and I make good time to today's finish, Zubiri.  Time to check into an example of the standard Camino accommodation - an Albergue.  Basically hostels for the pilgrims, they are cheap and perfectly adequate.  And now, time to get to a restaurant for more beer and hearty food, tonight I get a plate of paella to start, them a beef escalope, this is good, there is even company, a couple of my fellow pilgrims from the Albergue join me for dinner.

Río Ultzama, a little outside Pamplona.

Next day, a whole 22km to Pamplona - yes, the location of the famous bull running festival, that is later in the year though.  A bit cold early in the morning, but it warms up, for more lovely, easy walking.  Hmm, I still recall on the PCT being the slow guy, all the serious hikers leaving me for dust.  Seems like the other way around here, I still seem to be in good shape despite a year spent in a classroom, whereas my fellow hikers are not moving fast.  A lot of them have big packs, or poles they don't need (or know how to use).  I overtake many people, and arrive in Pamplona for 12:30, time to grab some lunch and find an Albergue.  Being here early is not a problem of course, there is much to see in Pamplona, primarily the impressive series of forts and ramparts surrounding the old city, it takes all afternoon to see a decent amount of it.  What to do in the evening then?  Oh I know, I will go to a bar for beer, wine (a whole bottle!) and a three course meal.  Spring rolls are involved..

Plaza del Castillo in Pamplona.

El Camino de Santiago : Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles

Kilometres this section : 16

Kilometres completed : 16

Striking French people in Bayonne.

Oh wow, long time no blog.   Well, travelling has not been easy recently, and so I decided to do another year of teaching, it has been very hard work and there wasn't much time for adventure.  I did get to Angkor Wat again, but I already wrote about that.   Well, time for something new then, specifically the Camino de Santiago, a historic pilgrimage route leading to Santiago de la Compostela in northern Spain, the town somewhat implausibly claimed to be the burial site of the apostle, James the Great.  There are in fact numerous routes, I'll be doing the Camino Francés, a 780km trail starting just over the border in France, in a small town called St. Jean-Pied-de-Port (henceforth SJPP).

Walking into St. Jean-Pied-de-Port.

Not too hard to get to the place, I fly to Paris, then another plane to Biarritz airport, from which it's only an hour's walk to Bayonne.  This turns out to be well worth the visit, there are impressive fortifications, and many half-timbered buildings, including my hotel.  Also there's an Irish pub with a variety of reasonably priced beer, and if the nearest I can get to dinner there is a croque monsieur, this is not the end of the world.  Next morning I grab some breakfast and snacks, then head to the train station to take the last motorised journey before I can start walking.

Except... oops.  Of course, it is France, the day has a D in it, so there is a strike.   No train, if they'd told me about the cancellation I could have got an early bus, now my best bet is to wait two hours, then get a bus to Saint Palais, from there another bus goes to SJPP.  But the strikers, not content with not working, are also blocking the road, not sure how the bus can get to us (I have been joined by a few east Asian hikers also hoping to get to the trail).  In the event, a local comes to our rescue, offering to drive us to a different bus stop - we get there just in time to catch the bus.  I reach Saint Palais around midday, there is a bus to SJPP, but not for another 3 hours!

Crossing the border into Spain.

OK, I can work with this, I head for the road out of town and stick up my thumb.  Sure enough, a nice lady offers to take me to the outskirts of town, although perhaps I misunderstood, as she drops me off some 22km away.  OK, thumb up again, this time I get to within 5km.  I feel like Xeno's arrow, doomed to never reach my destination, because I always have to get halfway first.   Ah, screw it, I can walk from here, and I do, and then get my 'Credencial', which I'll need to get stamped in every town to prove that I've done the thing. And, walking!   Starting at nearly 3pm, I am happy to accept the instruction to not walk the 'Napoleon Route', instead the winter route is shorter, only 23km, and mainly on roads.  I make good time then, the road leads up, into Spain without ceremony, then further up.

I pass through a small village, Valcarlos, then there's a lovely section of footpath beside a river, then back to the road.  Onwards, by 6:30 I have perhaps 8km to go, it's going to be a late arrival but I have a hotel booked, I am sure they will give me food, what can go wrong?   Hahaha.   This, clearly, is the day of everything going wrong.  A police car turns up, a fat officer gets out, and tells me it's getting late.  Yes, I know, I have had a few problems today, but not far now.  Gradually I realise that he is not being friendly, in fact he flat out insists that I either walk back to Valcarlos, or accept a ride in his car to Roncesvalles.  Well, no help for it, I get in the car... dear god, first day and I am already cheating.  Ah well, it does mean I am here in time for the excellent and very cheap Menu Peregrinal, and a beer or three, so all good.

Nice to be on a riverside footpath at least.