Cycling Chiang Kham to Chiang Mai

Wall with peacocks.

I'm really not feeling much like getting back on the bike, but no help for it, I need to head south.  I guess I am on my route from 2018, but in reverse, it doesn't feel terribly familiar though.  More of the same dry looking fields and low hills, and even a small hill is hard work.  I find myself stopping for a rest at regular intervals, I fear I am a bit out of condition...  Well, it is hot too, and indeed there is a wind against me at times.  Well, I keep going, cross into Phayao province with little ceremony, although later on there is a symbolic wall, with peacocks, at a high point among the hills - peacocks are the provincial animal, it seems.  And of course I am heading for the provincial capital, also named Phayao.  No energy for walking around the lake this time, I lie down for a bit before heading out for dinner.

At Phayao.

As I did five years ago, I head to the lake and take a photo or two, no time for fish feeding though, I need to get on.  There are big hills between here and Chiang Mai, and while I am feeling a bit stronger, before long I am pushing the bike up.  There are at least fine views over the quaintly named 'dinosaur forest', but it's hard work.  Lots of province boundaries here, I briefly pass through Lampang, then back into Chiang Rai.  I am not even going as far as the day I rode down to Phayao last time, maybe 15 km less, but the hills don't seem to end, in the event it is nearly 6pm when I roll into Mae Chedi - an actual town, rather than the previous 'resort in the middle of nowhere '.  Hmm, on the last trip I finished a longer day at 3pm?  Well, maybe this way was more uphill, or maybe I am getting old...

Seems to be holding up well.

The last day!  Probably a good thing as I could use a rest, but first there are of course more hills, indeed I start by pushing up a steep slope away from the resort.  Before long I pass the little place in the middle of nowhere I stayed last time, seems it is for sale.  Then a little past that, people are still boiling eggs in the hot springs, and the half built Angkor Wat themed... thing, is still there.  I guess it was also planned to be a resort, and kind of typical of Thailand that after five years it has neither been finished, nor demolished.  Onwards, more pushing, lovely mountain scenery, and I don't make much effort to go quickly.  Sure is nice to reach the highest point, these last few days have been hard work, but it is mostly downhill now.  Checking my blog entry from the previous trip, I am expecting to leave the mountains with some 30 km to go, but no... 25 km left, I am still going up and down, same at 20, then finally with about 15 km left I hit flat ground, and an easy ride into the city.

Well, this was all good fun, even if maybe I am not quite as fit as I should be!  Much of the route was through lovely country, and it was interesting to see a few new places.  I should probably do this again some time, not least it seems I missed a few sights, noticeably that White Temple in Chiang Rai.  I imagine I'll come up with a different route next time I go for a ride though, however before that - a different form of transport.  What could it be?

By a hot spring.

Cycling Mae Suai to Chiang Kham

Many things were at the temple, and most of them were blue.

Day four of this little trip, looks like an easy one on paper, only 50 km, this is good as I feel a bit tired.  Well, no help for it, and before long I am into the hills again, but it isn't too strenuous.  The road I'm on follows the River Lao, a substantial watercourse which actually flows north to join the Mekong rather than south through Thailand.  So, my route is flat enough, and indeed more downhill than not - very pretty too, the only downside being a lengthy section where they are widening the road.  And after a while I hit flat terrain, an easy few km from here to Chiang Rai.  I've been here before a couple of times, never by bicycle though, good to be back anyway.  Off to a bar near my hotel, and they are having a concert, well that works for me.

Chiang Rai seems a good place to take a day off, not least I feel a bit broken after days of mountain riding.  Plenty to see here, although annoyingly the most famous attraction, the White Temple, is some 16 km away, I rode past it yesterday but I really don't have the energy to go back.  Well, there is a Blue Temple too, or to use the real name, Wat Rorng Siua Dten, that is, 'dancing tiger creek temple'.  It is just north of the city, and indeed, very blue.  From there, a quick ride along the River Gok (yes, usually transliterated as 'Kok', haha, but Gok is closer to the actual pronunciation), and I am at the 'Reed Garden'.  This is a park near the university, and it was recently the location for the city's flower and art festival - while titled the 2023 festival, it ran from December 30th to mid-February.  There are still many flowers, and indeed art installations such as a giant tortoise, well why not.  Do I find another bar with live music in the evening?  Yeah, maybe...

It is a tortoise of unusual size.

Back on the bike then, for a long day, 80 km, but not a problem after a rest.  My route takes me along minor roads with little traffic, through a part of Thailand unlike any I've seen.  It's dry, almost arid, there are fields of plowed dirt, and wooded areas seem kind of sparse, unlike the lush jungle I'm used to here.  Unsurprisingly it is not a densely populated region, just a few small villages which at least is enough to keep me supplied with fluids.  My destination today is Chiang Kham, I was here 5 years ago, on my way to my failed attempt to cycle into Laos...  Seems like the place has grown a bit, I can't find the bar I went to then, it might be shut in fact, but not a problem, easy enough to find another.  They provide me with beer, tort man bplaa, and 'cheet born' - that is, fish cakes and cheese balls.

Not sure it rains much here.