Monday 24 June 2013

North Downs Way, Part 3

We three, hiking again.
Back to Kent for another weekend on the Downs then, and once again I've persuaded Stuart and Sarah to keep me company.  Two twenty mile days as well, I hope it doesn't break them too badly.  For once the weather looks like letting me down, the skies are grey and the forecast suggests there will be rain at some point, still it is dry enough when we alight from the train at Borough Green, and head uphill through Wrotham to rejoin the Way.  The morning's walking is familiar enough as we follow the ridge line, mainly through woods, including an extra mile or so when we get confused by one of the numerous broken signposts.  It doesn't help that I'm relying on my phone to navigate, and it picks that very moment to break down.  Still, we make it to our lunch stop at Cuxton just shy of 3pm, and grab some beer and sandwiches at the White Hart.  Only eight miles to go...

Medway crossing.  Shudder.
There is a slight hurdle to cross however, namely the river Medway.  Excitingly the NDW does so via a strip of tarmac alongside the mile long bridge carrying the M2 over the river - not being a massive fan of bridges, this isn't really a highlight for me.  I make it across in one piece, and then it is but a short stroll, never getting to far from the M2 - in fact we cross that motorway three times, in addition to having crossed over the M26 and M20 this morning.  Thrilling stuff.  We spend Saturday night at the rather excellent Bridgewood Manor Hotel, where there is haute cuisine (duck potato!) and a goodly amount of wine.

Some of the many steps.

Sunday morning, and after a short swim, then a large breakfast, we head off, back over the M2 (only time we cross it today though, boo).  Today our route is more or less along the historic Pilgrims Way, along which people used to travel to Canterbury to view various relics of dubious provenance.  Much of the route survives either as a quiet country lane or a rough cart track through the woods... of course as a long distance path the NDW takes a rather more gruelling route, up and down over hills and ravines, the slope is often steep enough to require steps.  While we don't get lost, it is nonetheless a struggle to keep to yesterday's pace, and it is past 3pm by the time we reach the Dirty Habit in Hollingbourne.  Another late lunch then, at least it is a good one, a variety of British tapas washed down with beer.

There is a monk under there somewhere.
The afternoon turns out to be something of a contrast to the ups and downs earlier on, as we keep to the Pilgrims Way, more or less hugging a contour line.  It isn't terribly exciting, but we do get to enjoy the view south across the Kent Downs (and of the M20!).  Somewhat miraculously the weather holds up, we get some occasional sunshine, and not once do I need to put on my waterproof top!  Before long we are heading downhill into Charing, which seems very quiet on a Sunday evening, there is at least a pub where we grab a celebratory pint.  Then off to the station, and a rather lengthy journey back into town - there really are a lot of stations in Kent it seems.

North Downs Way, Part 4 is here.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.