Munros this section :
Ben Klibreck
Ben Hope
Ben More Assynt
Conival
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| The Broch. |
I depart late from the campsite, wasting time trying to solve the mystery of the missing cheese - this is my lunch for a couple of days, but of course the solution turns out to be that I simply forgot to buy it, oops. Not ideal, this is a long day, with 15km of road just to start, through bleak surroundings, bog and forest, and little sign of humanity, barring traffic on the road, including numerous cyclists on their way to John o' Groats. The weather is horrid, constant driving wind, against me of course, and yes rain. It's a long climb up Ben Klibreck, at least it warms me up, not much fun though, and my camera doesn't like the weather either, I need to dig my phone out for a photo at the top. I finally emerge from the cloud on the other side of the summit, and there's a fantastic view, the empty land stretching out below me. Back down then, to a loch, and camp by a river at 8pm, no problem with still two hours of daylight remaining. More oops though, seems I left two tent pegs in Lairg...
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| Ben Hope summit. |
Another day, and much like yesterday, there's cloud at ground level, a strong wind blowing it into my face, and a long road leading north through bleak and uninhabited terrain. Eventually the cloud rises and it is actually sort of dry, though still windy. I pass a track heading west, I will be going this way tomorrow, but first I have to get up Ben Hope, the most northerly Munro, then retrace my steps. In fact, I reach my planned camp spot around midday, it is by the remains of a 'broch', a two thousand year old stone tower that must have been an impressive piece of engineering. I may as well put the tent up and leave it here, and lacking cheese for lunch I cook up a spare pack of noodles. From here the road runs north along a dramatic narrow valley, then I turn right to take a steep track up the mountain, the first 200m alongside a series of awesome waterfalls. But from then on the ascent of this isolated mountain, from which no doubt there are views out to sea on a clear day, is a grim, relentlessly wet slog to see a trig point in cloud. Everything I have with me is wet now, I hope this gets better...
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| Camped by Loch Cam. |
Another long day, this one is 42km, I am not really in the mood to walk along a road in wet shoes and socks, but it is what it is. At least I am going south now, the wind may be blowing from the arctic but it is behind me, and even more or less dry. That turn off leads to a well made track, courtesy of the water company I think, unsurprisingly it goes past past many lochs, this is easy going through bleak but beautiful country. Then more road, oh wow the sun is out, then an electric company track that is basically a road, my feet are actually drying and I am getting to the end of the long distance, it wasn't so bad. I can see a Munro, Ben More Assynt, and that could be nearby Conival behind it, well they can wait 'til tomorrow. To end the day I walk alongside a massive concrete pipe, an aqueduct feeding a hydro power generator of course, and camp near it.
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| With Peach (centre), and Horne. |
Emerging from the tent, I can see clouds high in the sky, and the rocky summit of Ben More Assynt not far away, let's do this. I get a fair way up on a decent gravel track, then the climb is easy enough until 200m or so of boulders before the summit. There are fantastic views from up here, I can see Ben Hope to the northeast, my phone works well enough as a camera, and it's not far to Conival, but the insane wind blowing over the saddle on the way makes it exciting. I reach the summit OK, from here the plan was to go south, but it is a knife edge ridge with a cliff to either side, I don't fancy it. Instead I follow a well used path north, this is a lovely walk, the sun comes out, and I can see the sea, not far away from the looks of it. After a steep descent I follow a stream east to reach a road, returning to my route from here would be a long way, but can just road walk to Ullapool, it's not too far, and I planned to get there tomorrow anyway. I have time to get some of the way, then leave the road on a handy path to camp by a loch.
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| Rather pretty on the approach to Ullapool. |
It is not too far to Ullapool now, road all the way of course, it is too busy with traffic for my liking but very scenic. There is interesting geology in these parts, I read many informational plaques, and pose with statues of Horne and Peach, whose survey of the region helped to explain its complex geological history. It's a nice day again, there seems to be a marked contrast between here and the east of the country, the landscape is green, cows and sheep graze, it's even warm. I cross a high point, and wow what a view, out over Loch Canaird to Isle Martin and the sea. I walk along a gravel beach, then a bit more road to Ullapool, where there is a campsite, a pub, and even a curry house in close proximity. Ullapool is nice if a bit small, a fine place for a rest day anyway, I of course shower, wash my clothes, and shop, and there's phone signal, I get to contact the outside world. Before long it's evening, so back to the Arch Inn, there are cairngorm ales, and they let me bring in a pizza, from an enterprising bunch with an oven set up in a nearby lorry - pepperoni with hot honey. And, there is even live music!
Photos to go with this post can be found here. 
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