Monday 10 June 2024

El Camino del Norte : Sobrado dos Monxes to Santiago de Compostela

Kilometres this section : 61
Kilometres completed : 845

Not far to go now.
It really is not too far to go now.  Not wanting to go hungry again, I wait for shops to open in Sobrado, and buy some bread for lunch - I already had some chorizo, it has been sitting in my pack for a couple of days in fact - I wasn't hungry enough yesterday to eat it with no bread!  There is walking to do of course, the way keeps on southwest, through woods and fields, I am feeling a bit tired for some reason and don't pay much attention.  At least today I get to eat lunch on time, and shortly after that the Camino del Norte joins the Camino Francés, at Arzúa, lots to see here as I recall but I have no time to waste.  Well, that said I do find time for a beer a little further on at the Casa del Horreo, in my defence I need a stamp, being into the last 100km on which supposedly you need two per day.  Onwards, to Salceda, there is really not much here, and indeed most of it seems to be shut, well, my albergue is open, and I manage to get a bacon and cheese bocadillo from the bar next door.

Massive albergue on the Monte do Gozo, the music festival can be seen in the background.
The last day, this is probably a good thing as I need a rest.  And, only 26km to Santiago, this will be easy, haha.  I follow a familiar route, through O Pedrouzo where I started the last day a year ago, past the airport, to reach my albergue for 1pm.  Because, as it turns out, it is fully 10km from Santiago - well, it was the nearest I could get, I didn't realize it was so far out though.  It would be nice to at least check in now but of course it is not open yet, OK then, I schlep on to Santiago, and the reason for the lack of accommodation becomes clear as a music festival is happening on the Monte do Gozo on the way into town. I make my way to the centre, and it takes 30 minutes to get my certificate, pretty fast really as there's a big queue - nearly two thousand pilgrims have arrived already today.  I get a photo by the cathedral, then of course walk 10km more back to the albergue, which is now open and very nice.  And of course there is a bar, well, time for a celebratory cigar which I have been carrying from Bilbao, and tonight I get a burger, and even treat myself to a dessert, appropriately enough it is Santiago cake.

With my Latin certificate.
Well this was very cool.  Despite finishing in Santiago once again, this route felt quite different to the Camino Francés, wilder and hillier, although certainly there was a lot of road walking, particularly in the first two weeks.  Sure, there was a bit of rain but I really don't mind, not least a warmish bed every night helps.  Well, almost every night, that one of sleeping rough wasn't great - clearly this is not a route on which you can just assume there will be an albergue.  And, whereas last year many of my days were too short, i think I may have erred the other way a bit this time, not least there were a bunch of places like Avilés which I could have spent more time in.  Well, maybe some other time, or indeed there are still many other ways to get to Santiago, and incorporating the Libaniego route seems an idea too.  Now I know to avoid French trains, what can go wrong?  No issues with Spanish police this time anyway.  For now though, I should probably go somewhere else.  I wonder where?


Photos to go with this post can be found here.

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