A new day brings dry weather, and nice walking, I am in the foothills of the Picos de Europa, this means a series of ridges sloping down to the sea, separated by inlets, it seems more like Norway than Spain. The way crosses one estuary on a long causeway, into San Vicente, it's most scenic. Then more motorway crossing, and more rain, this is not so great. Still, an easy day today, I reach Colombres for 3pm, to find an albergue full of kids, but it's a big place, there is room for me. It's cold though, this is not what I expected in Spain. Well, to a bar, which is also cold, and it is still raining, I do wish they would shut the door. Never mind, beer and a burger warm me up.
Up to this point, this route really has involved a lot of road walking, I don't really mind but it would be nice to see more actual footpaths. Well here we are, a lovely path in fact, the sea to my right, mountains to the left, so pretty. I am taken by the 'bufones' - waterspouts driven by waves forcing water into gaps eroded into the rock. There are goats hanging around too, cool, I must say I am liking Asturias, another new part of Spain. I am still close to that motorway, and another easy day, to Llanes, a nice place with a medieval centre, and a beach, where I paddle in very cold water. Better yet, there's a pilgrim menu! A stew of big white beans to start, so much, and chorizo too. Then cod with potatoes, all washed down with a whole bottle of wine.
I start the next day feeling a bit broken, too many beans and too much wine I fear. Nice walking though, and it seems like a proper Camino now, I am walking on a path, and there are many other pilgrims. There seem to be plenty of albergues now too, sure the one Colombres was full of children, but it had plenty of spare beds. So, I'm taking a chance, nothing booked tonight or tomorrow, I'm sure it will be fine. There are steep slopes to my left but the way stays flat, often alongside a railway line, also I am passing lots of holiday homes, and yes, decaying houses but also renovation and new construction. And, what is that small square building - it's a horreo! Seems they have a square floorplan here, like the ones on the last few km last year. Interesting design, the things are supported by stone pillars, then large flat stones below a wooden frame, and a separate set of stone steps provide access. On to my planned stop at Ribadasella, a big place, but it only has one albergue which is sadly full. I keep walking, OK, there's a municipal albergue on top of a hill, it's in the middle of nowhere, but I find a bar a couple of km away, worth the walk for a plate of chorizo and fried potatoes.
It's good to be a few km further than planned, today the distance is now only 33km, easy then. And it's a nice morning again, I am seeing a pattern, morning sun, then rain later on. Back to the sea, the beaches are empty, though I see a a few surfers in the water. What I don't see are many hikers, though I do spot some on the road rather than the trail - actually I have seen a lot going the wrong way, I think many people unwisely rely on the signs... The route turns inland, this is farm country, more horreos, some of them huge - apparently the larger ones, resting on more than four pillars, are actually 'paneras'. A big estuary is coming up, hence the need to get away from the sea, to cross the bridge at Villaviciosa, where I finish the day. It's another big place, there are multiple albergues and many restaurants, I pick place with impressive burgers - the 'Fundido' Is indeed impressive, with many crunchy bits.
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