Kilometres this section : 99
Kilometres completed : 250
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| At the Guggenheim. |
Sightseeing in Bilbao then, and I do in fact get decent weather for it. Interesting place, surrounded by mountains, I can see why the place has a stubbornly independent attitude. There sure is a lot to see here, churches and monuments of course, and while the Guggenheim is shut because it is Monday, it's still impressive, and the giant spider outside is cool. There is a giant floral puppy nearby too, and an open art museum which has both bizarre modern art and masterpieces from centuries ago. And wow, I have spent all day wandering, barring an hour or so checking into a hostel slightly further along the route. This one has pods - almost a room! Well, time to head back there, via the Athletico Bilbao stadium, then some proper food, well pizza at least.
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| Pedestrian bridge at Pobeña. |
Walking out of Bilbao, unsurprisingly, involves a hill, not a huge problem to be honest, there is a nice view of the city for one. I pass an opportunity to walk south to join the Camino Francés, eschewing that means descending, seems like there is extended urban, commercial or industrial terrain running north from Bilbao, and of course a river, railway and various motorways. Before long I am out of the Basque country and into Cantabria, doesn't seem much different but at least I can read the signs now. For whatever reason my plan takes an alternative Camino route, an impressively engineered cycle trail including lengthy viaducts, but much of it is alongside those motorways so not exactly scenic. No matter, I finish the day with a pleasant valley leading back to the sea, then walk a bit of beach to Pobeña and my first pilgrim menu of the trip! Lentils with chorizo and pescado a la plancha, worth the wait. Pleasant company too, I find a fellow hiker who was on the PCT only a year after me, small world...
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| Castro Urdiales. |
I make an early start from Pobeña, lovely walking on a cliff path, but a small problem after a few km, a locked gate blocking the trail. Obviously, I and the two Polish guys who are striding ahead of me don't climb over and walk a hundred metres of closed, but entirely safe trail, oh no. Well, the walking continues to be pretty flat, including some former railway, taking me to Santullán for 11am, way too early to stop. Then back to the sea, Castro Urdiales is a substantial town, and yes there's an impressive castle. I need to keep on though, the albergue here won't open for another couple of hours, and surely there'll be another within the next 15km or so... I keep going, the Albergue in El Pontarrón is shut, on to Rio Seco, nothing here, then it is getting on for 5pm and I have a choice, up into the hills or a km south to El Puente where there are bars at least. Not really a difficult decision, and indeed I am able to get beer plus a burger, but there's no albergue. Nothing for it but to find a quiet entry to a building where I sleep undisturbed, it is warm enough and I manage without a bedroll, not something I want to do often though.
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| Rather nice walking along the coast. |
I don't waste any time leaving El Puente, not like it is tempting to lie in on a cold, hard floor. I climb, cross the motorway a couple of times, and stop for a much needed coffee, and also to brush my teeth! The way returns to the sea at Laredo, very pretty it is too, also the route splits here, I am taking the inland route, for one thing this avoids taking a boat. I think most pilgrims must stick to the coast as I don't see many, perhaps understandable as this route involves a long stretch alongside a busy road. Well, the last few kilometres are nice at least, a minor road alongside scenic wetland, a good place to watch birds it seems. Destination today is Escalante, my cheap hotel turns out to be rather nice, so good to lie on a proper bed. Yet another burger for dinner, this one has Serrano ham on it, and even comes with chips. But hopefully something different tomorrow...
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