Wednesday 23 August 2000

Pennine Way 2000 : Day 5 : Lothersdale to Malham

Now That's the Way to Travel

Poor Austin.
The omens are not good - Alex's blister remedies seem to have welded themselves to his feet, and for his part Austin is complaining about the pain almost before we start walking (P1).  For breakfast we are reduced to dry roasted peanuts, and only the prospect of getting something more filling a few miles down the road encourages us to make a start.

It is therefore all the more disappointing to arrive in Thornton-in-Craven to find that the anticipated (and marked on the map) Post Office has closed, and is commemorated only as 'The Old Post Office B & B' (P2).  We take a brief break to gather our spirits anyway (P3).  From now on at least we pass some pleasant scenery, as the route leads along the towpath of the Leeds & Liverpool canal.  Before long we reach East Marton (P4), and only by doping me with Ibuprofen do my companions get me past the pub there.

Former Post Office.
Their argument, that there's another one two miles on, does make sense with hindsight.  First we pass a canal boat (P5), and are very struck by the way that the people on it move at the same speed as us, but crucially don't seem to put in much in the way of painful physical effort.  The way then cuts through some fields (P6) to the village of Gargrave, and of course its pub (P7).

We briefly revisit the canal (P8) before striking north towards Malham - the route is basically along a valley, but this being the Pennine Way we must climb up and down the side, apparently in order to see a house with an 'unusual badger weather vane' (P9).  We are very glad to finally reach Malham (P10), if slightly less happy to learn that the campsite is another half mile on, uphill.  We can at least take some satisfaction in the fact that we were now a full day ahead of the itinerary given in our guide.

He's not a happy bunny.

On the towpath.

That looks fun...

Not lost at all, honest.

Can we just stay here?

Hmm, maybe we should have a canal holiday some time?

Badger badger badger badger.

Another night, another pub.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.

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