Te Araroa : Taumarunui to National Park Village

KM this section : 111
KM completed 1159

Camped by the 42 Traverse.

Taumarunui seems a little better the next day, at least I manage to get some shopping done, much food, a pie of course, and stuff to work on my troublesome tent pole - a hacksaw, some duct tape, it's as good as new.  For my second night at the campsite I upgrade to a cabin, real bed at last, and also make use of the BBQ - cooking and eating four cheeseburgers, one after another.  I don't think it too many.

I've planned short distances for the next couple of days, the route is mainly off road and remains 'alpine'.  But in fact, the '42 traverse' cycle track proves absurdly easy walking, on my first day I keep going 'til 6pm, at which point I'm at least six kilometres past my planned stop.  It's so nice that the next day I do a bit extra... in the sense of, miss the (unsigned) turn from the traverse and go three kilometres the wrong way.  Ho hum... well, it isn't just me, returning to the trail I meet a French chap who has done the same thing.  He's going by the trail name of Moonkid, and somewhat to my surprise asks if I'm Tim. Well, guilty... turns out some Americans, having read my entries in the log books of the various huts recently passed, were asking after me.  Suspect it is a bit of a disappointment when they finally meet me at around 5pm.

Emerald Lakes.

We reach a campsite together shortly after, it seems lazy to stop now, and indeed they're going to keep going.  I decide to call it a day though, I may still be sleeping in the tent but at least I can sit in the TV room for a bit first.  Until it turns out to contain a massive cockroach anyway.  Moonkid is here too, he has the same tent as me - and has had to buy a new pole for it.

From here I walk through a real highlight of the route, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.  This involves an ascent of around a thousand metres, mostly up a well made path with magnificent views towards Lake Taupo.  I then make my way through an incredible volcanic landscape, there are lakes of brilliant blue and green - not for drinking thanks to the high mineral content - steaming vents, a mighty red crater, and looming above, the brooding dark cone of Mount Ngauruhoe, made famous as Mount Doom in the LOTR films.  I am slightly ashamed that I don't get to the top... it's a three hour detour off route, would likely mean walking until well past 9pm, as it is I get to Whakapapa for 6.30pm, time for beer... maybe.  The place has three licensed establishments according to my research, first up, a pub called the Tussock, is shut.  Well it is New Year's Day, what am I thinking.  Strike one.  The imposing Chateau Tongariro is open, but the girl there looks at me and says, dinner for residents only.  Hmm.  Strike two.  Thankfully, the Skotel (this being a ski resort) comes through, and I get a pizza with, it seems, the cured product of an entire pig on it.  Also pretty sure they give me several free beers, which is nice.

It's a short walk the next day to National Park Village, and a zero day next as well, I am so lazy.  Well, a chance to pile on some calories before continuing.  Odd little place, again a ski resort, given the lifts aren't here I guess it caters for those on a budget.  Works for me anyway, beer and food are available.

Me and Mount Ngauruhoe.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.