Kilometres this section : 98
Kilometres completed : 2,026
From Trevelin I head north on provincial road 71, it is surprisingly busy which is less than ideal. Easy walking at least, I am still being lazy, only 30km per day or so for the next few days. A fine view over Laguna Terraplén towards looming mountains, then a little later a looming obstacle - it's another national park. Will they let me in - yes! OK, I have to pay $20, but whatever, the lady does not seem interested in where I am going or how, good. My plan has me staying on the road all day, but the map shows a trail I can detour off on, this turns out to be an excellent option, a gently climbing dirt track with no cars. I'm a bit sad to have dumped those heroic shoes, but wow it is nice to walk without bits of grit and seeds continually getting in, and the new pair is even waterproof up to a couple of inches. I reach a high point, from here it is a lovely walk, looking towards Lago Futalaufquen nestled among the mountains. Before I know it I am there, Villa Futalaufquen - glad I didn't have to say that name much - is a few houses, plus a large campsite, complete with a restaurant that provides beer and yes, another pizza. I guess the whole, living in the wilderness subsisting on what I can carry thing is on hold for the moment.
My second day in the park starts with another 20km on road, then some trail, staying near the road. The first bit is squeezed between the road and the lake, still it somehow manages to involve quite a bit of up and down. Then across the road, and a crazy steep ascent of course, up to Laguna Escondida, it is indeed hidden, just a glimpse through the trees, although there's a good view back over Lago Futalaufquen, and as seems the norm here paths are well maintained too, lots of sawn up deadfalls. Then steeply down, overtaking some day hikers, to another paid campsite, where there's more beer, I eschew even more pizza though, really should cook the pasta I am carrying.
An early start next day, after that climb yesterday I am a bit concerned about today, it's mostly trails. A lovely start at least, straight out of the campsite on a well walked path through the woods, I pass through more campsites, clearly this is a popular place. Then back to the road for a few km, oh wait, a trail sign off to the right, looks to run through a grassy meadow, I guess they made a new trail? Not on my map, but better than the road, surely? I follow a well walked trail, plenty of recently sawn logs - but it is turning away from the road, and more and more steeply uphill. I hate to turn back, and keep pressing on, but eventually I am on a cow track, heading the wrong way, high above the lake, with no choice but to backtrack. Of course, almost back to the road, I spot the sign I missed, the trail continuing close to the road. Two hours wasted, well I walk the road rather than a big detour on the trail, then a nice bit of path, more road, tempting to stay on the road all the way and reach Villa Lago Rivadavia for 5:30 or so. But I really should do the last bit of trail, how hard can it be? Super hard is the answer, up, up, more up, to a mirador, where there's a sign saying the rest of the trail is closed, aargh. I don't have time to struggle through a mountain path that isn't being maintained, no choice but to backtrack for a second time. Forced march on the road, I get there for 7pm, wow, nothing here, well, campsite seems closed, a woman opens the door but tells me, no. Well, I find a shop, a restaurant with beer and pizza so huge I can't eat it all, good enough. At some point today I passed the landmark of 2,000km walked - though with all the back and forth I'm not sure exactly where.
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