Kilometres this section : 125
Kilometres completed : 1,728
After doing 40km or more each day for a while, I am taking it easy for a bit, more like 35 or even less. So a late start from Villa Amengual, on yet another gravel surfaced minor road, the X25. It follows Río Cisnes upstream, so yes I have to climb, but it is mostly gentle enough, the river running through a steep sided, tree lined valley with the road some way up one side. Not the most exciting walk, the most notable moment is when I am stopped for lunch and realise that large numbers of little red beetles are crawling over my stuff, and indeed me. They seem harmless enough, looking a lot like my favourite bugs, ladybirds - these things seem unable to fly though. Today I had planned to camp by the river, but it becomes clear that isn't happening, even when I am only a hundred metres or so from it the water is still a long way down. Well, I get water from a little stream instead, and find a lovely grassy spot for the tent. A large fox watches me set it up, the animal doesn't seem at all concerned by my presence - it is not getting any of my food though! And yes, I do find numerous beetles have hitched a ride in my pack.
On a lovely sunny day, I continue to climb on the X25, the banks of the river growing less steep and the surroundings looking increasingly dry. To yet another village, La Tapera, more bonus biscuits for me. And for the first time in several days, I leave the public roads behind. Obviously this means I immediately have to ford the Cisnes, well it is broad but only calf deep. And yes, the dirt track I am on climbs steeply up to over 1,000m, and even the horseflies - tábanos they're called - are back. For all this it's good to be back in the wild, and there is a nice view from the hill. Of course, from there I descend again, to a lovely camp spot by a pond fed by a little waterfall.
Another river to ford, Río Cáceres - I don't see any other water on my map until maybe the end of the day, so take the opportunity to fill my bottles. Then glorious walking, I climb slowly through terrain that is sometimes pretty arid looking, at others green with trees. I'm making my way up to a pass, snowy mountains on one side, to the other the bare, and extremely pointy, Cerro de los Contrabandistas. As with the Ruta de los Pioneros a few weeks back, I often pass little parches of pasture, and indeed, on reaching the pass, some 1'240m above sea level, it is an open, grassy place, complete with cows grazing. A couple of cowboys - well, cowgirl in one case - even turn up, presumably to check on the animals, I explain where I am going and I think they are OK with it. Honestly, I often have no idea what the people out in the countryside here are saying. Anyway, down - very steeply from the pass, and obviously I am following a river, as I have for most of the day, including multiple fords. There were even substantial lakes...
I've failed a bit when it comes to only averaging 35km per day, my camp next to a river is only 20km or so from the village of Lago Verde, end of this section. Well, good to take it easy - relatively, there's some steep climbing, still on a vehicle track, then onto a horse trail which descends precipitously, I am glad of my poles. Stopping for a break, I notice little red berries down at ground level - wild strawberries! Apparently this species is one of two that were hybridised to create the commonly eaten variety - the original is tasty, but small. Anyway, not far to Lago Verde, and wow, not much of a place, I am worried I won't find anywhere to stay, but no, near the pioneer monument there's an hospedaje, 25 whole dollars here. Mind you that is with full board - yes this involves much potato, although dinner on the second night is a bit of a change, stir fried chicken with rice - plenty of carbs either way.
No comments:
Post a Comment