Thursday, 18 November 2021

Uttaradit to Pitsanulok by Kayak : 3

There really were a lot of birds.
Day five, my kayak adventure is drawing to a close, this is probably for the best as I feel pretty exhausted and struggle to get out of bed.  Actually I think it is mostly the effects of the sun, it is odd, cycling for many hours in this country doesn't seem to be much of a problem for me, but after a few days on the river even my face is feeling sore - I think as and when I do this again I will bring a hat!  Well, today at least is another short trip, only fifteen kilometres again, this is good.  The river is maybe flowing a little faster below the dam, it certainly seems narrower and a little different in character, trees line the banks, a mixture of roots and driftwood piled up against them at the water's edge.  The boat is still OK, I think it is pretty tough and I'm unlikely to get a puncture, which is good as if I did I think I'd have to try to get a taxi, or maybe just leave the kayak and walk.  But no, I keep paddling and enjoying the view, and an amusing stretch where dogs run along the bank barking at me.  Can't catch me out here guys.  Of course it doesn't take long to reach my destination for the day, I actually managed to book this place online, supposedly a 'homestay' it turns out to be another resort/motel, very similar to the last few days.  This one is on a pretty busy, major road, I don't fancy walking along it in the hope of finding a restaurant, but there is a mini mart opposite, I am able to buy a phone charger to replace the one I left behind a couple of days back, and beer of course, but for food I am going to have to slum it with a pot noodle style affair - at least in Thailand it is going to be fairly tasty.  Proper food tomorrow, provided I can manage the final stretch that is.

Giant Krathong!
Last day on the river!  I make a relatively early start, given the need to lug the boat over a kilometre from the homestay to the river, then the time taken to pump it up.  I could do without the walking I must say, a trip where most of the accommodation was actually on the riverside would be good.  Well, seems like there is a decent current anyway and I get moving, fish leap out of the water around me, all very pleasant.  Then for a long stretch, an amazing number of birds surround me, nesting in the trees and wheeling in corkscrew shaped flocks overhead, most impressive.  Some more exciting wildlife too, I spot a couple of massive lizards, monitors I think, basking on the bank, sadly they disappear before I can get the camera out.  I'm getting pretty close to Pitsanunlok now, though the river winds back and forth so it is still a fair way to paddle, but bridges get more common and there are more temples too.  It is coming up to Loy Krathong, the November festival of lights, lanterns, and stuff floating on the river - many temples have a large flower made of paper floating on the river.  I pass through the fairly industrial looking north of the city, then past some typically massive Thai government buildings, and a number of most impressive temples before reaching the end of the route, success!  An actual hotel in Pitsanulok, it is nice if empty - seems like here they are still in full Covid panic mode, Loy Krathong is happening but is reduced to an open air market with various festive lights, no sky lanterns or fireworks, and no beer.  I can't find a bar, and I struggle to even find a restaurant but manage in the end.  I do succeed in buying a train ticket, no need to show my vaccination certificate even!

I succeeded!
So, a good night's sleep and some breakfast, then I'm off to the train station.  The bag with the kayak in it remains very heavy, but it isn't far, and there is no problem with the train - in fact it is rather luxurious, I even get an airline style lunch.  The train isn't exactly fast, but nonetheless takes me back along the six day kayak route in around an hour.  And the car is still where I left it all good, and not too long to drive back to Chiang Mai.  So, this all worked then, good to have a proper adventure, it has been too long.  It was all pretty good fun too - nice to travel in a new way, and get a different perspective on the landscape.  For sure, I wasn't exactly going through any kind of wilderness, and it has to be said that the view from the kayak didn't change much - no getting to the top of a hill after all.  Definitely worth doing though - they kayak will return at some point I am sure.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.

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