Friday, 27 May 2016

Off on my bike : Paris to Poitiers

Orléans Cathedral.
Paris is not an easy city to cycle in.  I struggle a bit with the crazy traffic, regular halts for red lights, steep hills and cobbles.  Nice to see a good slice of the city though, and once I get out of the centre I hit a decent cycle track and things improve.  Still a few hills though, and I'm worried this will be a long day.  In the event though, I hit some nice flat roads and make good time into Toury.

Only now do I remember I couldn't find the location of the campsite here, and marked the train station instead it seems.  I ride in circles a bit then ask in a bar - and not only do they know where it is, the barman even drives me there.  And they look after my bike - and beer - while I'm gone.

Can't find anybody to pay for camping in Toury, ho hum, off I go then.  More flat roads and an easy twenty miles or so into Orléans, nice place with an impressive cathedral.  From here my route follows the Loire, this is a popular route along either well built cycle paths or quiet minor roads, it makes for lovely riding.  The surroundings aren't bad either, the majestic river flanked by châteaux and pretty towns and villages.  I finish up in one such, Chaumont-sur-Loire, where I do have to pay to camp - a whole five euros, given this I feel justified in heading to a restaurant for an excellent meal - the tatin d'endives is just awesome.

Riding along the Loire.
More of the 'Loire à Vélo' route next day, through Amboise and then Tours where I get some shopping.  There is lot to be said for cycle touring I must say, not least compared to walking I can carry more, and don't have to worry about running out of food.  So for instance it is no problem to grab a bottle of wine to drink later - well, I am in France.  Destination today is Rigny-Ussé, home to the Château Ussé which inspired the sleeping beauty story, and most impressive it is.

Le Château de la Belle au Bois Dormant.
I leave the Loire à Vélo route in the region of Chinon - massive fortress there.  I do rather wish I could spend more time in these towns, but it's hard, where would I put my bike and bags for one.  Ah well... I leave the châteaux behind and ride through typical rural France, vineyards and tiny villages.  Then another cycle route for twenty miles or so, the Ligne Verte is another old railway, this time there is at best a thin line of packed gravel through the grass.  It's better suited to mountain bikes than my laden hybrid, but at least it's flat.

Then a bit more road into Poitiers, where I have a hotel booked, is good to have a shower and a real bed.  There is supposed to be a fête here, I can't find it though, still nice to have a wander around the town, the centre of which is up on a high plateau, must have been pretty defensible back in the day.  I do manage to find a bar at least.

La Ligne Verte.
Photos to go with this post can be found here.

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