Morocco, Part 1

A week in Morocco then.  My first time in Africa, fortunately I have my old mate Chris along, and he has at least been to Egypt a couple of times so should be able to show me the ropes to some extent.  Being me, rather than going on any kind of package I've planned out an itinerary involving lots of driving where we get to see a fair bit of the country - what can possibly go wrong?

Riad dar Saba.

Well, we have a little bit of fun with the flight, we circle the airport a few times and have a false start at landing - happens in Europe too of course.  Then when we get the car it seems OK but the GPS 'needs charging'.  Still, it is only a few miles to our hotel, Chris can manage to navigate using my phone surely.  Well, just about... we pass a fair few entrances into the old town, or medina of Marrakech, before realising we do in fact need to drive into what look like alleys suitable for pedestrians only, once in we crawl along at walking pace as bicycles, mopeds, donkey carts and people on foot weave around us with no regard for safety.  Eventually we reach a car park of sorts, with various vehicles jammed together.  A local indicates a place we should park, telling us to leave the handbrake off and the car out of gear so it can be rolled about if necessary.  OK... he then guides us to our hotel, down narrow alleys and eventually ducking under an arch to find the door.

Jemaa el Fna, in the heart of the medina.

Inside is a welcome bit of peace, an eighteenth century Riad, built on three floors around a central courtyard, open to the sky except for a tent like affair over the top.  We relax in the courtyard with some mint tea and a biscuit or two,  before heading out to find an ATM and some food.  This means leaving the medina, walking along the impressive ramparts and then into the newer part of the city.  We get a decent tapas style meal with a variety of hummus, kebabs and so forth, plus some Moroccan red which is drinkable enough.  Speaking of drink, this is clearly a pretty dry country - we spot precisely one bar, the 'British Pub' not far from the restaurant.  Feeling like the worst kind of tourists we tramp inside, but in fact it doesn't feel very British, with the table service and shisha pipes this could be any Moroccan cafe, except the drinks are beer rather than coffee.

Bahia Palace.

The next morning we head out into the souks - neither of us especially want to buy anything but it has to be done.  And in fact, I'm not sure if I'd ever buy anything here on the spur of the moment, since it is impossible to stand still for a few seconds without being hassled, either by the traders, or people offering to guide us, or simply begging.  It is best to keep moving, though at least we can stop for a coffee at intervals.  It is certainly an experience though, with all manner of things on sale, in many cases with the craftsmen working away in their stalls.  The crowds and the ever present smell of manure get a bit wearing though, so we head out to visit the city's cemetery, and particularly the Jewish section which is testament to the large number of Jews who lived here back in the days when they weren't quite so welcome elsewhere.  We take in the Bahia Palace, realise we forgot to have any lunch, and head back to the riad to make plans for dinner.

Our plans go a little awry however... we're after some traditional Moroccan food at a well reviewed restaurant, so head for one in the medina.  But of course we get lost... eventually hitting the main square, there are restaurants here but are they any good?  And moreover, will there be wine?  We end up walking around for a fair while, giving up on the medina and returning to the modern city, finally we find a rather classy French restaurant where Chris consumes snails.  Still haven't found any bars other than the nearby 'British Pub', so we head back there after dinner.  Have to say that while I'm glad we came to Marrakech, I'm also kind of glad we're getting away tomorrow morning, leaving the crowded souks behind to head into the Atlas mountains.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.