More Munros : Beinnglas Farm to Tyndrum

Munros this section :
Ben Vorlich (Loch Lomond)

Beinn Narnain

Beinn Ime

Ben Vane

Beinn Buidhe (Glen Fyne)

Beinn a' Chleibh

Ben Lui

Ben Oss

Beinn Dubhchraig

Sadly I'm not due a rest day yet, at least I sort of have a bed at Beinnglas, in a wooden cabin.  I make a late start, I feel tired and the tendon in my right calf hurts, I will try to walk it off.  To start with, the long way up Ben Vorlich, on a good track, then what seems like an endless stone stair down.  The weather has turned, there are clouds, and it rains as I ascend towards Beinn Narnain.  I plan to camp high on saddle, this seems a bit dubious, will it be too windy? - I remember poles snapping in the wind back in 2019.  But in fact it is OK.

The endless stair down from Ben Vorlich.

Next day an early start, starting from high up makes Beinn Ime an easy climb, and I make the second summit of the day, Ben Vane, by 11am, but it's slow getting down.  At the bottom I have some easy going on a nice gravel track, but it stops in the middle of nowhere, the plan is a kilometre or so off trail to join a road, it looks OK on the map, but the reality : cliffs - after a lot of searching I eventually find a way down, almost to sea level, I still reach my planned camp spot by 5pm, however the plan was to pitch the tent then climb Beinn Buidhe with a light pack - well, how long can it take?  A long time as it turns out... it is nearly nearly 9:30pm by the time I get back, good thing the sun sets so late here.

Beinn Buidhe late in the day.

One more day, then I can have a rest.  It starts with an easy green lane up Glen Fyne, then I head off piste for several km, this is a little worrying but works out OK.  I climb up to a high saddle, then walk packless up Beinn a' Chleibh, retrace my steps then take my pack the other way from the saddle, up Ben Lui.  There are many people at the summit, including a nice chap who gives me chocolate, indeed this group of mountains seems a good source of free stuff, I find no less than three pole tips over the course of the day.  From Ben Lui, a nice ridge route takes me over Ben Oss and Beinn Dubhchraig, then there's a long trail down to rejoin the West Highland Way, which I follow to Tyndrum.  Here there is of course beer and a burger, in a busy and not terribly hiker-friendly pub - they tell me off for removing my shoes!  Worse is to come at the campsite, as a trio of drunken louts shout, sing and swear at each other until the police remove them at 1:30am.  Good thing I don't have to walk tomorrow.

A typically delapidated fence crossing point.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.

More Munros : Cruachan Farm (back) to Beinnglas Farm

Munros this section :

Meall nan Tarmachan

Meall Buidhe (Glen Lyon North)

Stuchd an Lochain

Meall Ghaordaidh

Sgiath Chuil

Meall Glas 
Cruach Ardrain
Beinn Tulaichean

Beinn a' Chroin

Meall nan Tarmachan summit.

Another day off, but I need supplies so make the short walk to Killin, where bagpipes are playing and I get a tasty pub lunch of Cullen Skink (a potato and haddock chowder).  Back to camp, and I do rather better at the restaurant, venison burger tonight.  Next morning a lovely path through young forest, and then a well built trail takes me up Meall nan Tarmachan, busy with people, seems a lot of folks are walking the highlands rather than risking foreign travel in the age of Covid.  I descend onto the minor road above Glen Lyon again, well it is very nice, this time I walk down it, then follow the Glen itself a little way, then a minor road up to an impressive dam, I planned to camp around here but it's not 5pm yet...  OK then, I climb 1km more, pitch the tent, then walk packless up and down Meall Buidhe, why not.

Hydro dam in Glen Lyon.

Next day it's back down past that dam, and straight up Stuchd an Lochain, I get overtaken by a pair of game old girls, they're finishing the Munros today, fair play.  The weather is still amazing, it's so hot, my chocolate melts in my pack and the bogs are actually drying out.  I pass many more dams large and small, lots of hydro power up here.  Onwards, a quiet road, then some off piste to summit Meall Ghaordhie, and a very long climb down on trail.  I walk a flat, easy road, I planned to camp by it but 'no camping' signs abound, so a long way to find another boggy forest.

Another day, straight up Sgiath Chuil, it's cloudy today, still warm though and no rain.  On to Meall Glas, this one must be out of the way, there are no trails, and no people.  Down again, back to the Tay, I walk a busy main road for a bit, it's a relief to find a path.  I am some seven km ahead of my plan, one benefit of this being a pub at dinner time, yay bonus beer plus haggis before heading uphill to camp.

Hebridean sheep!

OK I am ahead of plan, and this was going to be a short day anyway, so I now have only eleven km back to Beinnglas Farm.  Hmm, didn't I miss some Munros around here though?  Yeah... I detour off to take out three of them.  This of course means a twelve hour slog, starting with a long, long climb up Cruach Ardrain, followed by an easy climb without pack up Beinn Tulaichean, then a sketchy descent towards Beinn a' Chroin, I have to drop my bag at one point, and watch it bounce ten metres down before carefully following.  At the bottom of the hill I return to the West Highland Way, walking south this time.  It's nice, but I have to force march as time is getting on, when I finally get to the farm I think I've earned my beer and meatball pasta.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.

More Munros : Aberfeldy to Cruachan Farm

Munros this section :

Schiehallion

Meall na Aighean

Carn Mairg

Meall Garbh (Glen Lyon)

Carn Gorm

Meall a' Choire Leith

Meall Corranaich

Beinn Ghlas

Ben Lawers

An Stuc

Meall Garbh (Lawers)

Meall Greigh

Camped out up above Glen Lyon.

Having drunk a fair amount of Schiehallion last night, today it's time to ascend the eponymous mountain - though not for a while, I have a long distance on the flat first.  It's pleasant enough, firstly on a trail along the far bank of the Tay from yesterday, then minor roads to the trailhead.  This being a big name hill, there is a well built trail, and many people on it, but still it's a stiff climb.  Worth it though, the clouds lift and there are fantastic views from the top.  Of course, I'm heading off into the wild, not so much of a trail here, I descend, then climb again to camp in a high glen.

Time to get a bit more serious now - four Munros in a day, hopefully I can do them all.  Well, starting high helps, the weather is good and I feel stronger, I can do this!  Actually I manage all four by 2pm, not bad going at all.  Plenty of walking left today mind, after descending I have a long, long walk along a road with a few too many cars on it.  It's a relief to turn off onto a minor road leading out of Glen Lyon over a pass towards Loch Tay, it's a lovely place, the road has a good grade letting me gain height easily, and there are plenty of wild camp spots - I even spot several others camping, before finding a place myself.  I've done well, a few km beyond where I planned, good as tomorrow is a long day.

Three Munros in a row - Ben Lawers on the left, then Beinn Ghlas and Meall Corranaich.

If yesterday was serious, I guess today is kind of crazy - seven Munros is the plan, hopefully quickly enough that the restaurant will still be open when I reach my campsite.  Well, it's another lovely day, time to do some hills, including big names such as Beinn Ghlas and Ben Lawers.  Fantastic views from up here, lots of people out enjoying them too.  I've done many of these climbs before, still, it wasn't nearly such nice weather back then... it isn't too hard anyway, I make it over all the summits, down and along another busy road, reaching camp in reasonable time.  Cruachan Farm is, well, a farm in the middle of nowhere, but it does have a restaurant and it is open.  Actually I struggle to finish a plate of greasy fish and chips, I think my body is currently in 'you are too fat for hiking, lose weight' mode.

Striking a pose on top of An Stuc.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.

More Munros : Comrie to Aberfeldy

Munros this section :

Ben Chonzie

Fun for all ages at the mountain bike centre.

My accommodation at Comrie is very pleasant, hostel prices but it could be a hotel, barring that I have to make my own bed, and indeed coffee.  There's no bar here, but I have brought a few cans from the village, and there is a van here selling gourmet burgers, yay.  Seems this is mainly a mountain bike centre, and why not... I am taking a day off, I need a rest, and to wash things of course.  The mountain bike centre cafe provides an artisanal pie for lunch, hmm, seems like mountain biking is kind of middle class.  Definitely worth a trek back into Comrie later, I do shopping and of course find a pub.  There is indeed yet another burger.  It is huge.

Fresh snow on the top of Ben Chonzie.

An easy couple of days out of Comrie, on paper at least, with just a single Munro, isolated Ben Chonzie.  Well, I make short work of most of the ascent, on a nicely graded gravel track, from here there's a gentle ridge walk of which the summit is the highest point.  Lovely on a nice day I am sure, today not so much - a cold rain on the ridge turns to actual snow on the top, yay.  Good to get over it and head back down, I quickly find another track leading down to the valley I plan to camp in - very early, it is not even 4pm yet but I could use the rest.

From here an even easier walk, mostly road along Loch Tay, and then beside the river Tay itself - the latter kind of busy, so I'm pleased to find a charming trail along the river, with many flowers planted alongside.  I suspect it is for the exclusive use of local anglers, but I get away with it somehow.  The route takes me past the Crannog Centre I visited some years ago, and the historic, and impressive, Tay Bridge, before delivering me to Aberfeldy.  Time for more shopping... not to mention beer.  I visit two pubs in fact, drinking pints of Schiehallion, and in the second eating yummy pizza.

The Crannog Centre - now with beach volleyball?

Photos to go with this post can be found here.

More Munros : Beinnglas Farm to Comrie

Munros this section :

Beinn Chabhair
An Caisteal
Ben More (Crianlarich)
Stob Binnein

Lovely weather on top of Ben More.

From camp - basically a random farm in the middle of nowhere - I head straight up the second Munro of the trip, Beinn Chabhair.  Again it is hard work - each ascent so far has been more or less from sea level and it is a long way up.  And of course the weather has turned, there is a howling gale blowing which doesn't help.  I make it to the top, then down to an exposed saddle, it is incredibly windy here too.  I can at least shuck my pack for a relatively easy climb up An Caisteal and back down.  But then I have to face the facts, trying to conquer the other three Munros I planned for today is going to leave me still stuck up here late in the evening in appalling conditions.  I decide discretion is the better part of valour, and still it is a long, long slog back down until I rejoin my route and find a camp spot, in a bog of course.

The Ben Sheann Hotel in Strathyre.

OK, another day, I'm feeling a bit more hopeful, only two Munros planned for today, and an actual hotel room booked this evening, I just need to get to it.  Well, yet another climb up from sea level, this time up Ben More, the ascent is bad enough but the insane wind makes it so much harder, sometimes I can barely stay on my feet.  It's nice to pass a few people coming down, shows this is at least possible, and yes I make it to the top, and a little further on the next, Stob Binnein.  From here there is a long ridge path, would be lovely on a nice day, not so much today.  Then down and some easy road walk to Strathyre, my hotel is nice, though sadly only one of the village's pubs is open, and it has no food.  Ah well, packet pasta in my room it is...

A bit easier than going up and down mountains.

My less than successful Munro campaign continues the next day - looking at the climbing involved I reckon my plan would take 12 or 13 hours, not impossible but I'd have to forgo the hotel breakfast, and indeed I feel a bit broken.  So instead an easier, flat route along cycle paths and minor roads, it is very pleasant especially as the sun is shining again.  I still manage to make it harder by walking off with the hotel room key and not realising for half an hour, ho hum.  Well, I make decent time to Comrie, and a little past it to the 'croft' where I have another real bedroom - the luxury!

Photos to go with this post can be found here.

More Munros : Balloch to Beinnglas Farm

Munros this section :

Ben Lomond

Starting the adventure, in Balloch.

It's adventure time again! It has been a long time... well, the Covid situation in the UK finally seems under control, so I am back, and indeed vaccinated. Travel outside the UK is still dicey, so, Scotland it is... I head for London just as the pubs reopen, time for a beer or two before the overnight bus to Glasgow. 

I'm slightly worried about being turned away from Glasgow, there is some sort of virus hotspot there, but in fact I have no problem quickly transitting to a train, off to Balloch. A nice little place, though I am not staying, I walk straight out, heading for the highlands as of course I am planning to bag some more Munros this trip. Much of this first day is in the lowlands though, it is quite nice to walk through British agricultural country, I've missed it. For most of the day I'm on roads, I do briefly join the West Highland Way, then detour away, before rejoining it for a lovely walk, seven km or so along the banks of Loch Lomond, it certainly is bonny. My campsite is on the lochside too, a beautiful place to stop, I even dip my toes in the water but it is very cold. 

Camped up by Loch Lomond.

Day two, and I keep along Loch Lomond for a little while, keeping to the West Highland Way, before turning uphill for the first Munro of the trip, Ben Lomond. It's a beautiful day for a walk, lovely views of the Loch below me, and fine walking on a well built path right to the top. This was a good idea! Hard work getting up there mind, given I started practically from sea level. On the way down I decide to take a shortcut, first of many I'm sure, yomping down over the bog to rejoin the West Highland Way. Good thing I went a shorter way, I'd expected the Way to be flat along the Loch, but in fact it is a crazy series of up and down. It is past seven by the time I reach camp, still, it has a bar, time for some beer and hearty food, all good.

On top of Ben Lomond.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.

Kayaking (actually, cycling) in Thailand : 3

Charming riverside accommodation.

I make my way south from Tak, continuing to follow the river of course - it still seems to be flowing quite quickly, I do wonder if the kayak plan would have basically worked had I stuck at it, but never mind.  On the other hand I suspect I'd have had problems with some of the accommodation options I booked... next stop out of Tak is Kampaeng Pet, quite a way by river so I went with the furthest place upstream I could find, it is fully eight kilometres from the centre of town.  Not exactly the middle of nowhere, but the nearby shops and restaurants are all of the typically Thai 'only open during daylight hours' variety.  With my bicycle it is no huge problem, I can and do ride far enough away to find a 7-11 and a roadside noodle place, but if I'd arrived by boat I would have faced a fair old walk to get food.

Temple ruins in Kampaeng Pet.

A nice place to stay anyway, right on the river.  There doesn't seem to be much current here, I test this out by going for a little swim - turns out most of the river is only a foot or two deep, but there is a deeper channel on the far side, where there is also a fish farm.  I have a day off here, there is yet another historical park here with old temples - I am quite close to Sukhothai here, at one point this would have been a satellite town, and later part of the Ayutthaya kingdom of course.  The expansive ruins make for a very peaceful wander about, few tourists these days... somewhat interesting is that here, they've excavated several large 'pools' - these would be where the stone - laterite - used to build the temples was quarried.  It is clearly not the best stone for building, I can see why it was never really used to build homes.  A nice restful day anyway, and in the evening I manage to find a bar and even a rather nice pizza place, the decor is most authentic, the pizza somewhat less so.  There is at least proper cheese, but thanks to the Thai sweet tooth, underneath that is something rather less like tomato sauce, and more like jam!

One last picture of the Ping.

Onwards - a little way at least, I've booked a room just the other side of Kampaeng Pet, this would have been a short day even on the kayak, although as it turns out, it would have involved a lengthy walk carrying the thing.  There is not a lot here, but at least there is a 7-11 so I can buy beer.  Then off to Nakorn Sawan, again - a long ride, over a hundred kilometres, but I make it, and that is the end of the trip.  Well, this worked nicely enough, but I'm still a bit sad that the kayaking didn't happen.  One thing I definitely could have done would have been to get a train to here, and then paddle further down river as far as Ayutthaya - the old capital of Siam and currently top of my list of places to visit in Thailand.  Not a very long way, and it seems that section of river is largely devoid of weirs and has many, many resorts for me to stay in.  So maybe next year for that... I do still like the idea of the Chiang Mai - Nakorn Sawan route, but I think it is probably more like three weeks, and I would not be able to rely on booking hotels online - instead, I think I'd have to drive along the route in advance, locating riverside resorts (there are many that don't have an online presence), and getting a contact phone number for them.  I think the wilderness section through the national park would likely take five days too - so for that, I would very much need a water filter at least.  One day!

Photos to go with this post can be found here.