Greater Patagonian Trail : Puerto Natales to El Calafate

Kilometres this section : 258

Kilometres completed : 633

I totally deserve a rest day in Puerto Natales, a couple of nights in a hostal it is then. Interesting place this, a pretty substantial town with a ski resort vibe - lots of hostels, lots of bar restaurants with tourists sitting in warm jackets and hats. The difference is, these people aren't here to ski, but rather trek on glaciers and look at penguins - there are many options for one or more day excursions. As for me, well, I think there is an actual GPT section to the northwest, not far from here. Unfortunately as with many of these sections, particularly in the south, it's a dead end unless you are prepared to take to the water. Apparently the thing to have is an inflatable boat... well, I do of course, but it is way too heavy for me to carry on trail. OK, spend much more money and you can get a lighter one, but honestly paddling across and walking like that seems... challenging. Not least we're talking regions that are completely uninhabited, so how do you get food? Well... the route from here would be through the Torres del Paine national park, it does look awesome, but other than taking to the water on the other side of the park, I'd need to cross into Argentina, and I see no evidence for a border crossing at the spot in question.

So... from Puerto Natales, I am walking northeast, on a road again. Not that exciting, but easy, a lovely day, and pretty country. This way, there definitely is a crossing into Argentina, I get my exit stamp from Chile OK, walk 5km of scenic no man's land, will Argentina's border control let me in? Well, the big 'Las Malvinas son Argentinas' sign is not encouraging, but I have no trouble, then a lovely woodland path takes me down to Rio Turbio, a little town that I think is a small ski resort, no snow now though. Also no cash for me, the ATMs here don't like my cards, I might be stuck paying with the credit card here.. well, it works, I get beer, odd pizza, and find some woods to camp in just out of town.

From here, a lot more road walking. It is easy of course, and the surroundings are majestic in their way, endless deserted grassy slopes, clumps of forest here and there, and to the northwest snowy mountains. I aim for 40km a day, a decent pace but not too much. Wow there's not much here, it seems hospitable enough, sheep and cows graze, I spot another rhea, and many cute little foxes, but no human habitation until near the end of my second day in Argentina. There is some kind of provincial police building, and next to it I think a restaurant? Or maybe not, I think it must be accomodation attached to the office, but the guy there not only gives me water, but even some bread and churrasco! Such hospitality, I am liking this part of the world.

From here I turn off the main road onto one with a gravel surface and few cars, good, this is more like real hiking. Clearly this is not a road much used by locals, over a day a few campervans go by, one van stops so they can give me a banana, most kind. A couple of cyclists struggling with the gravel, then two more, spending the night at an abandoned police station, while I camp by the nearby river. I must come here and cycle some day... Lovely weather now, it is genuinely hot , during the day at least, and I keep to my 40km per day. North of that police station, a minor road on the map, but a nice gravel track with zero traffic in reality, I am out in the wild now. I do revisit the main road briefly, and as usual have to persuade people that no, I don't want a lift. Then back into the wild, by now the surroundings seem pretty dry, sand, gravel and sparse clumps of grass, though plenty of dry mud too, it must rain, or maybe snow, some time.

I make my way down into a broad, windy valley and camp in a dry creek bed. From here, a glorious, if windy, section. The land grows increasingly dry, I walk over packed sand and pebbles, almost no plant life around. Then to the shore of milky white Laguna Sarmiento, I planned to fill bottles here, half a bottle of brackish water is all my filter can manage. Up over high moorland, then a stunning gorge opens up before me, Rio Bote sparkling at the bottom - fresh water is most welcome. Up again and I finish the day walking down to the road with more great views, this time of Lago Argentino, and maybe even a glimpse of sunlight glinting off glass in El Calafate in the distance. Not too much distance though, 25km or so, easy walking along the road and I am there by mid afternoon the next day.

Greater Patagonian Trail : Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales

Kilometres this section : 265

Kilometres completed : 375

I enjoy a day off in Punta Arenas, this involves shopping of course, plus sightseeing - there are many monuments and statues, including Mahatma Ghandi, and Luis Pardo, who captained the Chilean ship that rescued Ernest Shackleton's stranded crew.

And, back to the trail, north into wooded hills, without difficulty this time except the weather, can't be good every day I guess, there is a cold wind and persistent light rain.  Still a fine walk, then down on gravel tracks to a windswept plain, it is impressively bleak.  I make good progress, but camp a little early in a somewhat sheltered spot by a stream - I have a lengthy section of shoreline coming up, doesn't look like there'll be shelter there.

Sure enough it is bleak and windy by the water, which I think is a substantial inlet.  Fine walking though, as is the whole day, grassy heathland, then up on to a moor, sometimes on gravel tracks, sometimes just turf.  Rather glorious, although the constant wind is biting cold - at least, mostly sunny today.  And many animals to see, sheep of course, also wild horses and alpacas, and at one point I think a pygmy armadillo!  So a good day, and a long one, over 45km.

A cold night, thanks to the wind seemingly straight from the Antarctic I guess.  It is still blowing as I walk, briefly on a road with actual cars, then a gravel track heading north.  It is flat, straight and easy, good walking but for the constant wind.  To my left I pass Laguna Blanca, it is pretty big but I keep on, as does the wind, cold enough that I have all my layers on.  One point of interest is La Cueva de la Leona, a rocky gorge that apparently has centuries old indigenous art.. I continue around the Laguna, finally climbing a bit to pass the substantial Estancia Laguna Blanca, and on to a magical grassy plateau.  Still too windy to camp, I finally spot a grove of stunted trees, shelter enough.  A little over 50km today, and another interesting animal sighting - this time a rhea - South America's answer to the ostrich.

Another day, and the wind still blows, as I follow more gravel tracks over the bleak landscape.  Not that I need them, an off piste section later is easy going on springy turf.  After that I join the highway between Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales, the only substantial settlements in this isolated bit of Chile.  It's still only a single carriageway with not much traffic, easy going except for the wind.  One benefit to being on a road, I pass a roadside restaurant!  Not exactly haute cuisine but I get soup, stewed beef and mash, protein and carbs for the win, and even a couple of beers to wash it down.  So what if it is nearly 8pm when I get the tent up among some scrubby trees near the road...

I am very glad to have some sunshine, and even better, rather less wind, the next day.  All on road too, easy then, I march along, a range of snowy mountains getting closer, that will be the Patagonian Andes.  I'm not going there, pretty sure they're on various islands for one thing.  I stop at another cafe for a late lunch, the meat and cheese sandwich turns out to be a vast thing, disk shaped, it contains melted cheese, and huge quantities of steak in gravy.  Good though, I eat the lot, then struggle a bit with walking a further 20km.

Another 20km or so of road, and then some relief from it, I take a gravel track to the left, of course climbing a gate to do so and swiftly reaching a substantial estancia.  Here there are friendly dogs, and indeed a local, he doesn't object to me being here, but is a bit confused by my plan to walk to Puerto Natales.  What, it is only another 20km!  Well, to begin there's a lovely grassy track, this is more like it.  Sadly the next bit is 4km or so off piste, and rather than the grassy pastures I've been walking past, I get bog, then dense forest I can barely squeeze through.  I am glad to find quite substantial paths made by cows, they get me through this, then an easy last section into town, and a proper bed, yay.