Thursday, 23 October 2014

Warsaw in Autumn.

Culture!  And Science!
Just a little walk today, but it is in a new country.  As the summer drew to a close this year I realised that while I had got around Europe a fair bit, and still had some trips planned, none were to a country I hadn't been to before.  So, a quick look around at airline websites and hotels, and I decided on Poland - there not being much of Western Europe I haven't visited, and Warsaw was cheap and convenient to fly to.

Must admit, I was expecting the place to be freezing cold, and to be honest, a little grim and seedy, along the lines of Sofia.  Lots of post-Soviet concrete and all that.  But in the event it is a lovely sunny day, and Warsaw is really quite charming, a city of street cafes and palatial architecture, it rather reminds me of Copenhagen, which thinking about it is not that far distant.

I've planned a walk of some ten miles, mostly along the 'Royal Route', along which the old Kings of Poland would proceed from the palace south of the City into the centre.  I start by taking the recently built metro down to the outskirts of Warsaw, and then head out into the country, briefly passing through fields to reach the substantial construction site of the Pope John Paul II Institute - they are certainly proud of their Polish Pope around here.  A brief stroll from here and I'm at the start of the Royal Route, the Wilanow Palace complex, a baroque masterpiece unlike anything I've seen in the UK.  I could spend a lot longer than an hour here, but need to start heading north back towards the city.

At the Wilanov Palace complex.
After a few miles of suburban Warsaw, I find myself walking past some impressive residences - now the embassies of various foreign powers it seems.  Noting the presence of armed soldiers here and there I decline to take pictures.  After passing the president's residence I reach Lazienki Park, which like the Palace complex is filled with statuary, lakes, and various historic buildings.  There is also an unexpected peacock, and I even spot a couple of red squirrels!  Better yet there is a cafe where I get a ten Zloty (two Pounds) pint of local beer, before carrying on northwards.

I continue through parks, passing the surprisingly unobtrusive parliament building, and on to what seems to be Warsaw's equivalent of Regent Street.  Opportunities abound for high class shopping and eating, not really for me to be honest, though near the end of the walk I do pass the 'Browarmia' restaurant and brewpub, to which I will return later for beer and dumplings.  But first I have a mile or so left of the route, finishing up at the old city with its ramparts just as darkness falls.  Well, this was all rather fun I must say, Warsaw turns out to be very pleasant.  I also get the impression there are opportunities for some longer walks, or indeed cycling, around these parts.  One day, I shall come back...

The Chopin Memorial in Lazienki Park.
Photos to go with this post can be found here.