France by bike (again) - Day 4

Ongoing archaeology at Petworth House.

I awaken on Tuesday morning, really not feeling in very good shape.  Didn't really overdo the beer, but many parts of me ache, I've got a fairly nasty sunburn, and my digestive system is rebelling against the sausage-based diet I've been existing on for the last few days.  Nonetheless, I drag myself to breakfast - yet more sausage - and then out onto the streets of Portsmouth before 9am.

As I recall, last year the eighty miles or so back to London was something of an epic adventure, a fourteen hour journey involving a great deal of pushing up hills, some ill-advised mountain bike terrain, and borderline physical breakdown both of me and the bike.  This year then, I've amended the route a little, adding an extra couple of miles but avoiding serious climbing until I hit the North Downs.  And, thank heavens, it works, I'm able to pedal on at a reasonable pace all morning and into the afternoon, making regular stops for water, and indeed ice cream.  The new route is quite scenic as well, among other things I pass Petworth House which gives the French Chateaux a run for their money.

Under the M25 - practically in London now.

If I have to climb over the North Downs, then Reigate Hill is not a bad place - there is at least a pavement all the way up alongside the busy A217.  And this time, the roll down the other side is on a minor road, so decent speed and less destructive to the bike - although, the fusillade of clicks now coming from the crankshaft show that the poor old thing has suffered as much as I over the last few days.  I briefly take to a bridleway to duck under the M25, then ride through the last bit of green belt into Greater London.  As last year, from here the route is via a succession of suburbs, all easy enough going - in fact I'm pleased to find I am still pedalling quite strongly.  This time I make it home less than eleven hours after leaving Portsmouth, quite an improvement on last year.

South Norwood Country Park.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.

France by bike (again) - Day 3

Easy going on the old Railway line.

Day three then, and while I'm not exactly raring to go, I do feel better after a decent night's sleep and some breakfast.  I'm a bit worried about missing the boat though, I have fifty miles to do and the ferry departs at 5pm, not really sure what the terrain is going to be like either.  So it is a relief when I find myself on that staple of the UK cycle network, a disused railway line.  Just as at home, it provides a gravel surface and more or less no slope, and even shelter from the sun as I generally have trees on either side.  Very pleasant cycling I must say, I can see why the hotel garage was full of bicycles.

Only fifty-seven kilometres to go!

Nice to see signposts for Cherbourg along the way - and being in kilometres the distance seems to reduce quite quickly.  The other direction is signed for Mont-St-Michel, it doesn't say how far.  As the cycle route is rather less direct than the way I went last year, I am guessing quite a long way.  One problem with following an official route though, I'm not passing through many towns.  At around lunchtime I do at least stumble upon an artisan bakers... here I get an excellent sandwich, a chantilly swan and a can of orangina, all for a mere five euros.

Festival pains eh.  Reminds me of Glastonbury...

The afternoon wears on, and sadly the railway comes to an end, from now on I'm faced with more up and down, and my pace drops alarmingly.  Still, I've made decent time and can afford to slow down a bit... as it turns out I get to within seven miles or so of Cherbourg, and then roll downhill all the way to Tourlaville on the coast, after which it is a flat mile or two to Cherbourg.  After a quick look around I realise that while I can see the ferry, for some reason the entrance to the port area is all the way back in Tourlaville, ho hum.  A bit more pedalling then and I board the boat, time for a beer or three on the way back to England.

This time I have the whole evening to spend in Portsmouth, fortunately my old mate Martin is on hand to direct me to a more salubrious part of town, and indeed the George Hotel where I've booked a room turns out to be a pleasant pub.  Still, I can't make it a late one as I have a full eighty miles to do tomorrow.

The fast boat - Cherbourg to Portsmouth in just three hours.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.

France by bike (again) - Day 2

Back at the Tumulus de Colombiers-sur-Seulles.

I am cruelly awakened at 6am, after too many beers the night before.  Time for a coffee, then I'm off, seventy miles today, and the hangover is not helping.  From Caen I head west, reversing my route of last year.  It is nice to reach Bayeux and feel I can stop to sightsee, where previously I was worrying about missing the boat.

I follow last year's route all morning, stopping at Noron la Poterie for a fine lunch of merguez and potatoes done many ways.  Then at Saint Lo I break new ground, joining an official cycle route, this will take me all the way to Cherbourg.  At first I ride along the river Vire, so flat, good.  Shame it is a British style gravel path.

Cycle route along the river Vire.

Again it is very hot, I am drinking a lot of water, which becomes a problem as France seems to shut on Sunday afternoons.  Fortunately I stumble upon a boules rally in Saint Fromont, they've sold all their water, but somebody has opened a mysterious roadside cabinet with a tap inside.  There is a sign here for my destination, Carentan, which is good as I am tiring.

Sadly it proves to be a long way still.  I think the heat isn't helping, am sure my muscles shouldn't hurt this much.  Seems to be affecting the brain too, at the hotel the receptionist explains the usual stuff, but I just stand there like an idiot.  Carentan is nice though, more great food (All you can eat saucisse sec!  Trou Normande!), and the marina makes a pleasant spot for a beer or two before bed.

Restaurant in Carentan.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.

France by bike (again) - Day 1.

Not quite as wet as last year.

Well, this seemed to go pretty well last year, and I have the bike part of a triathlon next weekend so need to train.  Off to Caen then!  As per last year, I start from Frimley, taking a relatively easy fifty mile route to Portsmouth.

I recall struggling to find a pub for lunch last year, so I do a bit of shopping on my way through Surrey, and eat a pleasant packed lunch in a field.  Of course, this year pubs have re-opened, honestly though I am not feeling it, I am just too hot.

I've eaten lunch in worse places...

And it keeps getting hotter... I read a paper later suggesting temperatures of thirty-three degrees or so, and I am struggling.  My twist-shift gear is too slick with sweat to work, so all I have is the thumb-shift hub gears - all three of them.  Still I make it to Portsmouth, feeling really rather peculiar.

Interesting place.  My ferry goes at 10.45pm so I have most of the evening here... Not sure I fit in what with my lack of tattoos.  Finding a pub doing food proves tricky, eventually I find a rather scary Wetherspoons, with its own dancefloor, beer served in skiffs, and id checks on the door.  They do at least provide me with an enormous hotdog.

Ferry to Caen - sadly no restaurant or entertainment.

Photos to go with this post can be found here.